Camino 2016 – Day 1 – Santiago de Compostela to Negreira – September 2nd
Up, up, down and up!

I woke just after 6am eager to get going. The Cathedral’s bells served as my alarm clock. Nice one. I had my rucksack packed from the night before save for the clothes I was wearing and a few snacks. I filled up my water canister and headed out. There was no movement in San Martin so I made sure to keep quiet. I was in room 450 which was on the 4th floor. No lift working didn’t help matters either, so I was getting a healthy work-out before even leaving the building. I left the key behind the desk and moved on.

To find the start of the Camino Finisterre, you need to enter the Praza de Obradoiro through the archway at Praza da Inmaculada and carry on down the slope beside the Parador. Before setting off, I stood in the Praza and took a breath in. It was pitch black, and quiet. I saw two other pilgrims. The Cathedral stood tall in front of me, still in a state of disarray. Hopefully, the works will be completed soon.

The street winds down to the main road and Cafe Tertulia, which I had hoped would be open. I was in two minds to stay for a morning cafe con leche but moved on regardless. A morning breakfast bar and chocolate would do me until the next town. It isn’t long before you leave the city and you enter a dirt track. I was delighted to be met by my first distance marker showing 88km to Finisterre, shortly followed by a “Fisterra” sign and arrow marked on a bridge over the River Sarela. I was for sure going the right way, however, there was a distinct lack of peregrinos. It was by no means the Camino Frances. Maybe it was too early, I thought to myself. It was very dark and I found myself using the light on my phone to look for arrows or distance markers. The sun started to rear her head shortly before 8am and at that stage I had 6km walked. The nearest town with a cafe is Augapeseda which is another 6km, and I had breakfast bars and water. Anyway, my feet were strong and I reached Augapeseda shortly.

The first distance marker on the Camino Finisterre

Boom! Hot spot number 1 felt on my left foot. Down with the bag, out with the compeed and off with the shoe! I was glad to have caught it as I was in no mood to have a blister so soon into a Camino.

The temperatures were increasing with the sun and before long, it was 28c. I wanted to reach Negreira by midday as I had a feeling it would get hotter and I was right. I passed an amazing little town called Ponte Maceira on the Rio Tambre, with it’s own waterfall. It was perfect to stay but I had only covered 16km. Maybe another day. Just another 4kms to Negreira. Boy, but what a 4km! It was all uphill and I raced for the nearest albergue – Albergue Alecrin, to avoid any further climbs. I had only covered 21kms on this day but the heat had knocked me for six. I was a pale shade of pink. It was a fairly lonely day also, despite the scenery. I didn’t come across any other people with a good grasp of English. Mostly Spanish, Italians, and Germans and despite my best efforts, I tended to keep in the shade and to myself.

I had a lovely menu del dia in the Imperial Bar, which has an English owner. They provide a 3 course meal for €8.50. There is nothing wrong with that! Negreira also was celebrating a medieval festival on this day and night, which I missed altogether. This would be the largest town I would pass through before I reached Finisterre. It has all facilities with a number of supermarkets and if you wanted to cook yourself in an albergue, you could do so.

It was at this stage that I decided to think ahead. The following day, I was aiming for Olveiroa and 34km. The forecast was for much of the same, and with painful ankles from the day’s climbs, I decided to sleep on it.

Camino 2016 – Day 0 – Dublin to Santiago de Compostela – September 1st
A short flight to Spain!

So I have returned! My feet have touched Irish soil after my Finisterre Camino….well yesterday! I have received my Finisterrana and watched the sun set under the horizon. Yet again, the Spanish people have been 110% and my need to return has greatly increased. I have met some amazing people also from all corners of the world. So how did I get on?

My flight was on the 1st of September. An Aer Lingus A320 Airbus flew a largely Irish crowd at 1pm Irish time from Dublin. I decided to check my bag in this time as I had a pacer pole with me. Once I queued through security, I waited for the plane to board. There were a lot of Irish heading off with small bags, presumably walking from Sarria to Santiago. Everyone was giddy, traveling into the unknown. I talked to a young couple and urged them to collect as many sellos as possible. The credencial will be even more special than the compostela in years to come, I vowed.

My rucksack was an impressive 6kg with the trekking pole dismantled inside. At least I was doing something right. My plan was to walk from Santiago to Finisterre in 4 days and then on to Muxia. There I would watch the sun set and would have 5 days walking complete. It’s the shortest time I have been on the Camino but I need the remainder of my holidays for other reasons. I left Ireland knowing that the weather was going to be pleasant and with no rain forecast and I packed with that in mind. I left my poncho, gaiters and sleeping bag at home and brought the liner. All well and good…although I hoped we had no rain!

So I arrived in Santiago Airport shortly after 4pm Spanish time. There is a very handy feeder bus from the airport that leaves you at Praza de Galicia, which is  about 15 minutes, and from there, the old town is 10 minutes walk. Unfortunately, I got lost trying to find my stay for the night – the Hospedería San Martin Piñario – a renovated monastery. It still had the old features and for €23 it is a joy. I strongly recommend that you stay there when in Santiago (http://www.sanmartinpinario.eu). It’s simple but all you could need as a pilgrim. I decided to meet a blogging friend, Sindre, after checking in, for a few drinks. He had recently completed the Camino Primitivo to the north of Spain. So I walked down to Roots and Boots Albergue beside the Parque Alameda. He was with his friends and kindly invited me to join them. I was the only one who had yet to start a Camino, so was feeling a little left out! We went for some food later but I left a little early to get myself ready for the next day’s hike. I tend to wake up early!! 🙂
As always Santiago doesn’t sleep too early and there was a band playing for a few hours in the Plaza de Obradorio. I drifted off around midnight eager to get the next day started.

Waiting to take off in Dublin