It is now 6 weeks since I arrived home from Santiago de Compostela. Many other pilgrims have arrived there since I arrived home whether it be on the Camino Francés, Camino Portugués or the many various routes. I keep in touch with the Camino on almost a daily basis and wish I could return again this year. Alas I can’t, but I can do the second next best thing and return next year. I will tell you more about these plans when I finish writing about about my previous Camino. Hopefully it won’t take too long. Follow me if you like what you see.
So where were we?
May 12th 2022 – Day 6
- Oia to Baiona via Baredo
- Distance: 18.9km – Gronze.com
- Albergue: Estela do Mar, Baiona
I would be leaving Oia on my own today. Wallace and Ray had decided to taxi to the next albergue having blister problems. It would be the first day I would be walking solo and while I enjoyed the experience, I did miss their company. The day proved to be a mixed bag – a little bit along the road, a little bit off the road, a little bit challenging. Some parts of the day were new to me and I will go into that a little later on.
I started out before 7am and I had the sea as my companion for a few hours. I stopped for a while at Oia monastery to watch the ocean before carrying on. It was quiet save for the noise of the waves – I suppose that’s what made it special. A few arrows showed me the way and I walked in the direction of Mougás. Memories of 2018 flood back – it was a lot brighter then though.
Walking by the road doesn’t have the same appeal to it. I had grown used to walking by the ocean for the last week. This short section wasn’t to last however. I reach Camping O Muino an hour later and it was full with pilgrims having breakfast. There was a sign at the door with a menu and I decided to stay. I saw my friends from the UK and Luxembourg. They had stayed in Mougás. The poor staff was super busy but it wasn’t long before I was back on the road. I had some companions too.
From here the Camino takes you down to the ocean for a while, along tiny paths and then back up to the road. Before As Marinas, we were left with a choice – either keep to the road and continue to Faro Silleda or cross the road and take the more challenging higher path to Baiona. Ordinarily, I would take the lower path but because I had walked the road in 2018, I decided to do something different. Throughout this route, there are two high points – one at 130 metres and another at 100 metres. I was with a group of about 9 pilgrims taking this path and I was more nervous of the descent. We all knew each other pretty well – but most kept calling me the Irish pilgrim. Most were Spanish, German and French.
I must admit I just wanted it to even out but once it did I was glad I took this route. It was beautiful but I would be lying if I didn’t say I took at least two breaks! The descent to Baiona is gradual although it is on rock and through forest. The Capela de Santa Liberata in Baiona greets us as you enter the town but it was closed. Next door to it is the Colexiata de Santa María de Baiona. It was open and we managed to collect a sello. I was happy to rest for a while and have a tapa. My friends were moving on to A Ramallosa for their night.
While I waited on the guys, I chilled at the coast in Baiona. It is a beautiful town and it has a fine albergue, Estela do Mar. It is a small albergue and I had a great sleep. I was looking forward to the walk to Vigo the following day but I would be saying goodbye to the sea.
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