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Camino Finisterre 2016

Santiago de Compostela to Finisterre

From the 1st until the 8th of September 2016, I traveled to Spain to walk my shortest Camino yet. It would take me from Santiago to the Atlantic coast, the end of the world. The Camino Finisterre is seen by many as an extension to the longer Camino Frances and watching the sunset by the sea can be a better way to say goodbye to your Camino friends. I met some amazing people, from all parts of the world. Below, you can read about my times and the people I met.

September 1st, 2016 – Day 0
Dublin to Santiago de Compostela

So I have returned! My feet have touched Irish soil after my Finisterre Camino….well yesterday! I have received my Finisterrana and watched the sun set under the horizon. Yet again, the Spanish people have been 110% and my need to return has greatly increased. I have met some amazing people also from all corners of the world. So how did I get on?

My flight was on the 1st of September. An Aer Lingus A320 Airbus flew a largely Irish crowd at 1 pm Irish time from Dublin. I decided to check my bag in this time as I had a pacer pole with me. Once I queued through security, I waited for the plane to board. There was a lot of Irish heading off with small bags, presumably walking from Sarria to Santiago. Everyone was giddy, traveling into the unknown. I talked to a young couple and urged them to collect as many sellos as possible. The credencial will be even more special than the compostela in years to come, I vowed.

My rucksack was an impressive 6kg with the trekking pole dismantled inside. At least I was doing something right. My plan was to walk from Santiago to Finisterre in 4 days and then on to Muxia. There I would watch the sunset and would have 5 days walking complete. It’s the shortest time I have been on the Camino but I need the remainder of my holidays for other reasons. I left Ireland knowing that the weather was going to be pleasant and with no rain forecast and I packed with that in mind. I left my poncho, gaiters, and sleeping bag at home and brought the liner. All well and good…although I hoped we had no rain!

So I arrived in Santiago Airport shortly after 4pm Spanish time. There is a very handy feeder bus from the airport that leaves you at Praza de Galicia, which is about 15 minutes, and from there, the old town is 10 minutes walk. Unfortunately, I got lost trying to find my stay for the night – the Hospedería San Martin Piñario – a renovated monastery. It still had the old features and for €23 it is a joy. I strongly recommend that you stay there when in Santiago (http://www.sanmartinpinario.eu). It’s simple but all you could need as a pilgrim. I decided to meet a blogging friend, Sindre, after checking in, for a few drinks. He had recently completed the Camino Primitivo to the north of Spain. So I walked down to Roots and Boots Albergue beside the Parque Alameda. He was with his friends and kindly invited me to join them. I was the only one who had yet to start a Camino, so was feeling a little left out! We went for some food later but I left a little early to get myself ready for the next day’s hike. I tend to wake up early!! 
As always Santiago doesn’t sleep too early and there was a band playing for a few hours in the Plaza de Obradorio. I drifted off around midnight eager to get the next day started.

September 2nd, 2016 – Day 1
Santiago de Compostela to Negreira

I woke just after 6 am eager to get going. The Cathedral’s bells served as my alarm clock. Nice one. I had my rucksack packed from the night before save for the clothes I was wearing and a few snacks. I filled up my water canister and headed out. There was no movement in San Martin so I made sure to keep quiet. I was in room 450 which was on the 4th floor. No lift working didn’t help matters either, so I was getting a healthy work-out before even leaving the building. I left the key behind the desk and moved on.

To find the start of the Camino Finisterre, you need to enter the Praza de Obradoiro through the archway at Praza da Inmaculada and carry on down the slope beside the Parador. Before setting off, I stood in the Praza and took a breath in. It was pitch black, and quiet. I saw two other pilgrims. The Cathedral stood tall in front of me, still in a state of disarray. Hopefully, the works will be completed soon.

The street winds down to the main road and Cafe Tertulia, which I had hoped would be open. I was in two minds to stay for a morning cafe con leche but moved on regardless. A morning breakfast bar and chocolate would do me until the next town. It isn’t long before you leave the city and you enter a dirt track. I was delighted to be met by my first distance marker showing 88km to Finisterre, shortly followed by a “Fisterra” sign and arrow marked on a bridge over the River Sarela. I was for sure going the right way, however, there was a distinct lack of peregrinos. It was by no means the Camino Frances. Maybe it was too early, I thought to myself. It was very dark and I found myself using the light on my phone to look for arrows or distance markers. The sun started to rear her head shortly before 8am and at that stage I had 6km walked. The nearest town with a cafe is Augapeseda which is another 6km, and I had breakfast bars and water. Anyway, my feet were strong and I reached Augapeseda shortly.

Boom! Hot spot number 1 felt on my left foot. Down with the bag, out with the Compeed and off with the shoe! I was glad to have caught it as I was in no mood to have a blister so soon into a Camino.

The temperatures were increasing with the sun and before long, it was 28c. I wanted to reach Negreira by midday as I had a feeling it would get hotter and I was right. I passed an amazing little town called Ponte Maceira on the Rio Tambre, with its own waterfall. It was perfect to stay but I had only covered 16km. Maybe another day. Just another 4kms to Negreira. Boy, but what a 4km! It was all uphill and I raced for the nearest albergue – Albergue Alecrin, to avoid any further climbs. I had only covered 21kms on this day but the heat had knocked me for six. I was a pale shade of pink. It was a fairly lonely day also, despite the scenery. I didn’t come across any other people with a good grasp of English. Mostly Spanish, Italians, and Germans and despite my best efforts, I tended to keep in the shade and to myself.

I had a lovely menu del dia in the Imperial Bar, which has an English owner. They provide a 3-course meal for €8.50. There is nothing wrong with that! Negreira also was celebrating a medieval festival on this day and night, which I missed altogether. This would be the largest town I would pass through before I reached Finisterre. It has all facilities with a number of supermarkets and if you wanted to cook yourself in an albergue, you could do so.

It was at this stage that I decided to think ahead. The following day, I was aiming for Olveiroa and 34km. The forecast was for much of the same, and with painful ankles from the day’s climbs, I decided to sleep on it.

September 3rd, 2016 – Day 2
Negreira to Santa Marina

I was 2nd to wake in this one room Albergue Alecrin. An Italian girl who was first to bed was busy getting her gear ready and her movement woke me up. It was 5.30 am. I decided to make a move myself at that stage. After a quick breakfast of tea, a breakfast bar, and some chocolate, I threw on my rucksack and started out. Negreira was dark…and quiet. Walking up the main street, I came to the edge of town where the medieval festival was still ongoing and there was no sign of it ending. I heard someone shout “Hola peregrino!” from one of the many bars. I walk through the town’s original walls and into darkness.

The first 10 kilometers on this stage are all essentially up, up, up! You have to gain 300 km in elevation, about 900 feet, which can take energy. I walked through the villages of Zas, A Pena, and Fornos, mostly in darkness. My phone was my guiding light and I had plenty of water too. The terrain from Negreira is divided between roadway and forest. On the roadway, you are constantly checking for cars that come at great speed, while in the forest, the opposite applies. Leaving the roadway, I passed through forest, with dirt tracks and stone walls. The light was diminished by high trees. Ever since leaving Negreira, I had been debating with myself should I continue to Olveiroa or stop somewhere beforehand. My ankles were sore from the previous day’s exertions and I knew that 34km might be a little bit too much for today. Anyway, I walked on..

Just before Villaserio, I was greeted by a small shelter selling food and snacks. It was great to have a cafe con leche however the owner had limited English. I stopped here for a while and met two girls from Slovenia and Italy. One had walked from Lugo and the other had walked from Leon, both were continuing to Muxia together. We decided to walk together for a while as they wanted to practice their English. I was pleased to help! I really enjoyed their company, and they had great stories to tell me about their times on the Camino. Hmm…the Primitivo..I might walk it next year! One had visited Ireland many times and had traveled parts that I had not been to!! I felt bad now  Passing Vilaserio, I noticed the fabulous new albergue. Next time around, I would love to stop off here.

I checked in to this great albergue and found a bed to myself. I was the first there but it was full before the evening was over. Casa Pepa is just off the Camino and is family run. The owners are very friendly and even if you don’t plan on staying, do drop in and say hello and buy a drink. I had covered 21km today, but I couldn’t help think “what if”. What if I stuck with the girls and walked to Olveiroa? I would not see Muxia this year but it will be there next year. So be it. I thought of the rest of this Camino I thought of Finisterre and how I would get there. I thought of the sunset and I thought of returning to Santiago. All these things brought a smile to my face. How could I say I have failed?

I washed my clothes, had a shower, and had an amazing menu del peregrino. Afterward, I sat outside in the shade, watching the world go by. I met many Irish people stopping by for a drink as they walked to Olveiroa. Tomorrow, I would walk closer to the sea.

September 4th, 2016 – Day 3
Santa Marina to O Logoso

I left Casa Pepa with very little idea as to where I would finish the day. Most of those who were staying here were aiming for Cee, which is 35km and there are two villages prior to that – O Logoso and Hospital at 16km and 18km. But these pilgrims had been walking for 30+ days and had strong feet. I had plenty of time at hand and could take that time, so I decided on aiming for O Logoso. On arriving at O Logoso, I would have 2 further days to walk to Finisterre. This was my “chill-mino”, after all!

The majority of the people in the albergue left at the same time as myself but mostly kept to themselves in their own groups, whispering amongst themselves in their various languages. I had bought some fruit and chocolate from the evening before and within 15 minutes, I started on out in the dark. It was foggy and before long, I was covered in a light layer of dew. Water was dripping from the trees and this was enough reason for me to put on my rain jacket. There was no rain forecast, however. It wasn’t long before I had left the roadway to the dirt track under the trees. At this point, I started to climb over 300m and passed the towns of Gueima and Abeleiras. On a clear sunny day, you can see the reservoir of Encoro Da Fervenza. There are normally great views, but this morning, it is dark, misty and I can only use Google Maps to assure myself of what is ahead of me. Regardless, I march on and descend the hill on the other side to arrive at Ponte Olveira and into Olveiroa. So far this morning, I had covered 10km in just under 2 hours. The sun was doing it’s very best to break through the mist but failing. It was a nice change in the weather and I welcomed it.

I decided to stop off at Albergue Horreo in Olveiroa for some breakfast. Some Spanish pilgrims who had stayed here the previous night were putting packs in order and getting ready for the day ahead. I recognised them from stopping off in Casa Pepa. I ordered my usual tostada and cafe con leche and I sat outside. I talked to a girl from Hungary who had stayed in the Refugio in Ponte Olveira not too far behind. She wanted to walk to Finisterre today – just under 40kms. I wished her well but I couldn’t help asking why she wanted to go there in such a rush. She told me she had no money and was hoping to sleep in the donativo albergue in Finisterre while offering to work there. She was taken in by the Camino experience. I offered to buy her a coffee but she refused my offer. I enjoyed talking to her and moved on after drinking my cafe. “I’ll see you in Finisterre”..she shouted as I walked off.

The next 4km to O Logoso was spent in the hills. There are quite a few ascents and descents and I was glad for flatland when I finally reached it. It was particularly busy at this point when I got caught up in a large organised group of Spanish hikers. I decided to walk at speed ahead of them as they were slow. I met my Spanish friends from Albergue Horreo again and we exchanged small talk in English. I was getting used to walking alone on the Camino Finisterre. I suppose I would have enjoyed the company but I am walking under my own conditions while walking alone.

I arrive at O Logoso after 4 hours and ask the owner if they are open. She smiled and said yes, but the room is still being cleaned. I say “Estoy cansado” and she laughs! I had no problem waiting outside in the shade with a glass of ice-cool coke. Just while I was waiting, the Hungarian girl arrives and sits down beside me. After a cigarette and a quick chat, she moves on and again says “I’ll see you in Finisterre”.

This albergue in O Logoso is one of the better ones. I could have walked to Cee, but that is another 18kms and at 11am, there was no guarantee of a bed. I washed my clothes, showered, and chilled in the sun, which had finally made an appearance. Albergue O Logoso sits on top of a valley and there is an impressive view, once you walk behind the albergue. I had an early menu del dia and sat out in the sun until 8 pm. The albergue filled up very quickly, however, I hadn’t met any of the people in it before.

Tomorrow, I would walk to Cee or Corcubion and the next, to Finisterre. However, I have had plans broken before.

September 5th, 2016 – Day 4
O Logoso to Escasalas

Day 4 started out in the dark yet again. My dorm was sound asleep when my Fitbit alarm buzzed at 6.30am. My plan was to walk to Cee which was just over 16km away. I would then have 12km left to walk into Finisterre. As such, I was in no great hurry so I decided to get up, take my time, and enjoy the few days I had left on this Camino. That being said, the temperatures were due to rise over the next few days, so I aimed to finish up between midday and 1 pm. I gathered my rucksack and headed out for my penultimate day of walking. I was getting closer to the sea and was getting eager to see the Atlantic Ocean from this side of the world.

It wasn’t long before I arrived at Hospital and a large cafe at the side of the road. It made great effort to let pilgrims know that the next stop off point was in 15kms in Cee. I had enough in my bag to keep me going for that long and I actually looked forward to chilling out by the coast in Cee with some snacks. At that stage, the Camino brings you along the main road and it is a little dangerous at parts. A rush of adrenaline ran through me when I saw the concrete milestone on an island in the middle of the road. Unfortunately, it was too dark to take a picture but using the light on my phone I knew which direction to take. Looking back, I saw a number of people behind me walk towards Muxia and now I was alone. I didn’t mind that, however.

Today’s walk is different to yesterday’s or the day before. On arriving at Hospital,  the terrain was predominantly flat for about 10 km. There are no towns, hamlets or villages but I enjoyed this emptiness. I kept looking for distance-markers however, just to be sure I was going in the right way. I also had been told from a Camino friend that I would see the ocean after 2 hours or so and then, I would start on a rather steep descent into the town of Cee. You must remember that I was at just over 1000 feet above sea level and somehow I needed to get down to Cee in 10kms. Let’s hope these knees hold up!

The sun had risen and I was about 5km from the coast. I met a French group who recognised me from Albergue Casa Pepa in Santa Marina. They shouted at me “Hey Irishman, why do you hurry? are you chasing the girl?”.I was a little stunned at this point and didn’t know what to say! I said I wanted to see the water and the ocean and wished them a Buen Camino! Other than this group, I only saw one other person until Cee – someone snoozing in a sleeping bag in a picnic area.

I saw a sign for Albergue Moreira around about this point and decided I would aim for here. My day was done, I thought. But I had a descent to find first! Descent first, cold beer second!

And there it was..A green distance-marker, with the words “To the End” written on it, pointed the way to the ocean! It was a beautiful sight. I stopped for a few moments and took a few pictures. It was quiet save for the sound of business in Cee’s port. “Ok…the descent..”, I thought to myself. It started all the way to the town which we could see down. It was very hard for me to concentrate on what my feet were doing as the view was breathtaking. However, I forced myself to, and soon, I was at sea-level. I saw the albergue and sat outside waiting for it to open. Cee is a fab coastal village located in a cove, and it was very different from the villages I had walked through so far. As such, I wanted to stay here. I would have only 12km to Finisterre tomorrow.

It was 9.30am, still very early and I could easily walk on to the next town. But I wanted to spend some time here…gah!..my mind was torn! I walked over to the albergue’s door and see that it was not open until midday. I could kick myself! I grab my backpack and pole and move on. I would walk to the next town, Corcubion. Looking back, I was incredibly hard on myself. I probably should have found a bar and chilled in Cee and then come back to the albergue. Oh well…

I walked along the coastline, taking in the breeze. Oh it was nice to feel that. I meet a young German guy who was looking for a bar. I walk with him for while. Our pace was non-existent at this stage, we were both in “looking for bar” mode, which most pilgrims can understand. My legs had just recovered from the descent into Cee, however, boom! we turned a corner and started to climb up intensely. The German guy said “Ah yes I remember now..”, he must have walked this before. But, hey, no pain, no gain! The trail was made of boulder-sized rocks and I needed to watch my step as I walked. After the climb, I needed to stop and rest for a while. He continued on, looking for his bar. I would never see him again.

Soon after I was out of Cee and the next town, Corcubion, I saw a wide deserted beach and immediately left the road. The weather was almost too hot, and it was great to see the ocean as I walked closer to Finisterre. I spent the next 2 hours walking between the main road, villages, and beach. The heat became very uncomfortable and I decided that I would check in at the next place that had a bed, whether it be an albergue, hostal or casa rural. I saw Hotel Playa Langosteira in Escaselas. It is 2 minutes walk from the beach and a 2kms walk from Finisterre. Maybe I could see the sunrise the next day? I hope so… Now, I just wanted to sleep.

September 6th, 2016 – Day 5
Escasalas to Finisterre

I woke just after 7 am after a perfect sleep in the Hotel Playa Langosteire. I knew I had a little under 2km to go before I reached the main village of Finisterre, so I left after gathering all my things. The sun was slowly rising above the horizon and I stopped for a while to watch it rise. Later on that evening, I would see it go down. It was 8 am and I had a fear that nothing would be open. However, I passed a group of American women who told me they had an amazing breakfast in one place just off the main road – Albergue Cabo da Villa. I thanked them and wandered off, searching for this place. Arriving there, the owner instantly invited me in for breakfast, which consisted of coffee, toast, and fruit and then she offered me more. This was great! I thought about staying here but there were no rooms ready at this time.  However, she offered to take my bag and pole from me for later, so I could wander around the harbour and take some photos.

There’s a nice descent into the harbour from the Albergue. On first impressions, it is littered with bars and restaurants, however it was too early and none of these were open. I sat down and took everything in. I knew I had another 3km or so to Cabo Fisterra, so I had technically not reached the 0 km point. But I preferred to wait until the evening to go there. It was at that stage that I saw the Italian girl from earlier on in the week. I couldn’t believe it! She had walked the alternative route to Muxia and had arrived in Finisterre the day before. We both took a slow walk in the cold ocean, which felt great but walking on shells on a beach can be painful!!. I also met the girl from Hungary who was right when she said she would see me in Finisterre. She had slept on the beach just like she said.

With sand in my shoes, I said my final goodbyes to both and walked to the main road and to “Brigantia Viajes”. I needed to book my bus ticket back to Santiago, no matter how much I wanted to stay. I bought an open ticket for the next day – it cost €13. I aimed for the 8.20 am bus but there was another at 9.45 am if I was late. I stopped off next door in the Mariquito Bar for two glasses of Coca Cola. Halfway through my 1st glass, an elderly man, who was with his wife, said to me – “Hola amigo!” I had no idea who he was. “Did you like Casa Pepa?” Nope, still no recollection! How and ever, I enjoyed the conversation. He was from Colombia and was spending another few days in Finisterre. He showed me a photo on his phone from Galway Bay. “See this…my daughter was here and she loved it”. I didn’t doubt a word he said. I said my goodbyes and made my way back to Cabo da Villa where the bunk beds were being made available. I chose one on a bottom bunk yet again at the very back of the room. It’s a lovely place, with great owners and I would recommend it. I showered, washed clothes and spent a number of hours thinking of the evening.

There’s no shortage of restaurants or cafes in Finisterre and at around 4 pm, I strolled down to the sea-front and had a great three-course menu del dia for €10. I’m not much of a fish lover, so I stayed on pasta carbonara. It is perfect pilgrim food. I didn’t see anyone else I knew which kind of bothered me. It was also the perfect time to collect my Finisterrana in the Municipal albergue. There was a short queue but in a while, I had the certificate with my name and date of completion. I wandered back to the albergue for a short snooze until 7 pm when I decided to walk to the Cape.

While lying on the bunk, a heard a guy with what appeared to be an Irish accent come into the room. He was finishing his day and looked flustered. I was delighted as I hadn’t come across any other Irish since the airport. I asked him “so what part of Ireland are you from?” He was a bit taken aback and said “Ah, how’s it going, I’m from Cork!”. I enjoyed speaking to him, as I speak as I could at home. We both agreed that we would walk to the Cape later on when he was ready.

It wasn’t long before the albergue started emptying out. Folks had bought drink and snacks and were taking them to the cape to watch the sun go down. Some would stay there for the night, others would come home by 10 pm and prepare for walking to Muxia the next day. My Cork friend was one of these. The walk to the Cape is just over 2km uphill and I chose to wear sandals. Hmm..not a wise move! Within 45 minutes we were at the lighthouse. It’s a popular place to be and the car park was full within a short space of time. I asked for a few photos beside the 0km marker and then found a spot to watch the sun go down. I managed to record it, see below. It was a special evening and it wasn’t long before it was dark. I headed back to an empty albergue Cabo da Villa and got my pack ready for the next day. Santiago was my next destination…

September 7th & 8th, 2016 – Day 6 & 7
Finisterre to Santiago and Home

I had a restless sleep the previous night. A large group came in to the dorm at 3am from gathering at the cape. I didn’t blame them though. It’s the last night. Maybe if I was younger, I would have joined them. Anyway, I got up just after half 7..the sound of flip-flops being my final alarm. My Cork friend was gathering his belongings while I carried my bag out to make sure I had everything. He was to walk to Muxia that day but was waiting for another friend to accompany him. I said my goodbyes to him. Muxia would wait for another day. Today, I was travelling to Santiago.

I walked down to outside the Xunta albergue, where the bus stop is. I had a good wait ahead of me before the bus arrived shortly after 8.15am. People were busily going to work and opening the cafes and restaurants. I was really hoping this was just a dream. I picked up my rucksack..ouch…nope it’s real. I had aches in my lower back from the previous few days’ climbs. Hmm..I need to get (and remain) Camino-fit. I got on the bus and had a seat near the top. A few minutes later, my friend from Slovenia got on. I knew I would meet her before I left. I was delighted! The Monbus coach takes you from Finisterre to Cee and further south along the coast, before it arrives in Santiago. All in all the trip took 2 and a half hours. It was good having company on the bus, as well as looking at pilgrims walking between Cee and Finisterre. I had hoped on being in Santiago by 10.30 am for the English mass, but the bus was delayed. Not to worry. We both got a feeder bus from the Estacion de Autobuses to Praza de Galicia (only a €1 each) and walked to the Praza da Obradoiro. No matter how many times I have stood in front of the Cathedral, I feel a great sense of joy. I watched other pilgrims enter the Praza happy to have completed their Caminos. I noticed a number of members of Guardia Civil with arms there too, which I didn’t notice the last time I was here. Times are changing. We both agreed to meet later for some food once we checked into our albergues.

The Hospederia San Martin Pinario hadn’t changed in my absence. I got my key – Room 409 – ugh! Another climb up those steps. On the top floor, I heard Dublin accents. I said “so I’m not the only Irish person here?” We had a long conversation about our completed Caminos. Both had walked from Sarria and loved the experience. They invited me out for a bite to eat but I needed to clean myself up. I was grateful for their offer. I hope to see them at the airport however when we were flying home. After a shower, I had an hour snooze and wandered out to a busy Santiago. The streets were full of tourists, pilgrims, and souvenir traders. It was bustling. Walking down Praza de Cervantes and into Rua do Preguntoiro, I look at all the shop windows. I was looking for Rua Nova however and it isn’t long before I am lost, yet again. I find it after a while and take a seat at El Retablo (you should go there). It’s a great cafe and I ordered an Estrella. The best part of ordering drinks in Spain is the snacks that you are provided. 

After an hour or so after, I went to the Cathedral and then met up with my Slovenian friend, We decided to have some food and before long we were in a restaurant at the end of Rua Vilar. It was really enjoyable! We then walked to Casino Cafe to finish the evening. We were then joined by a Latvian girl who had walked the Camino Frances. She enjoyed the Camino experience so much, she was now going to walk to Porto or further. We wished her well and gave her some Portuguese phrases to use  I hope to walk from Porto soon.

I then had an early night, promising that I would go to the English mass at 10.30. The following day, I woke at half-past 7. I decided to get some breakfast in San Martin. It was fab! Toast, tea, fruit and you can take more when finished. Yum! I then checked out, left my bag behind reception, and went to find the English Mass. If you are interested and if English is your first language, there is a mass at 10.30am Monday to Saturday and 9 am on Sunday in the Capella de la Soledad. About 50 turned up for this service, mostly from Ireland.

We went for a short walk to the Parque de la Alameda to count down the remainder of my Camino. I hadn’t long before I had to take my bag and fly off from the airport. I said my goodbyes, although I gave an invitation to come to Ireland!  and made my way to the airport.

There, I was re-introduced to queues…and everything that I didn’t see on the Camino. I was back to reality. I met my Irish friends from San Martin again and sat with them for lunch. They seemed to have a good time, which is the main thing. While waiting for the plane, I thought about walking, I thought about the next time. The question of “if” had long been answered, it was more a question of “when” and “where”. I had met some great people also – from Ireland, Slovenia, Italy, France, Hungary, Latvia, Colombia, Germany. I hope these memories will stay fresh as they are now. I arrived home tired, wanting to be in Spain. 

Where did I stay?

I feel that I need to mention the albergues that I stayed in on my recent Camino. All in all, I really enjoyed them. All were private albergues at a reasonable cost, and the owners went out of their way to assist anyone staying there.

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