As we enter a new season, I thought I would write a post just to keep you in the loop with things in my part of the world. It is a public holiday here in Ireland and it is gorgeous outside. Blue skies everywhere. It’s just unfortunate we can only wander 5km from our household. We are still in Phase 1 of the roadmap to re-opening the economy. Phase 2 starts on June 8th and from then I will be able to visit other households within 20km of my locality. The advice is still to stay at home and to travel for essential reasons only but I long to see my family once June 8th passes. I have been in this part of the world since March 13th, but I have been kept busy.

Spain & Portugal

With news from Spain, the Foreign Minister Arancha González has confirmed that Spain will welcome tourists from the start of July, however there are certain countries will not be allowed access until their own country’s situation improves. This included the UK and I would assume the USA, although this has not been confirmed. As things stand, the borders between France and Spain and Spain and Portugal are closed so is it not possible to walk from St Jean Pied de Port or Porto/Lisbon.

The situation in Portugal is much the same. It has been rumoured that Portugal will welcome tourists in as soon as June 15th but nothing has been confirmed.

For tourists going to either country, social distancing and the wearing of face masks in public will need to be maintained. For how long, that is the question? For many pilgrims, they will wait until a vaccine is available. Many will travel and face the risks.

Some links:

• Caminho in Portugal: Some challenges
• Information on measures and restrictions in Portugal
• Lifting of lockdown in Spain – full details

Camino in 2021?

I still have hopes to return to the Camino in 2021. This all depends on if there is a second or third wave or if there is a vaccine. Ideally, I would love to travel there with a vaccine but it will take 12-18 months before it will be freely available. So the Camino will look vastly different to the one I walked last. Fewer people will be on it. The albergues will be curtailed and there will be a new normal. Many albergues/hostals will require you to reserve ahead. I was leaning toward walking from Burgos in April but as the situation in Portugal looks more stable that I am more inclined to walk from Santarem to Porto. On the other hand, walking from Madrid to Sahagun sounds appealing.

Regardless, I have many months to think it over and I have flights bought from this year so I don’t need to worry about flights.

Camino in 2020?

I won’t be walking in Spain this year unfortunately but I may be walking one of the many pilgrim routes in Ireland later this Summer. More details to follow.

Padrón to Santiago de Compostela

One of our longer days due to an error in the distance markers at O Milladoiro. We set off early from Padrón with the sun yet to rise on a wet and drizzly morning. But hey! we were in Galicia! Our minds were set on Santiago and arriving in the Praza!

The first interesting village of today is Iria Flavia. This was an important Celtic settlement. Later the Romans gave it municipal rank as a Roman road passed through it. The Collegiate Church of Iria Flavia was built between the 12th and the 17th century over an old church that dates back to the 1st century. This was the first cathedral in Galicia.

The path meandered through villages, rural areas, and some lovely woodland paths. We stopped at a cafe just off a main road in A Escravitude. The owner treated us to large tostadas and cafe con leche at quite a reasonable price. Across the road from the cafe is a large church. Unfortunately, it was not open at the time and we walk on. We walk away from the main road for a while until we reach A Picarana.

From here to Santiago, the Way is a mix of pathway and cobblestone. We arrive at Milladoiro and the route is straightforward although we are eager to arrive at the main square. We arrive in via the south and not under the archway which is new to me. The Praza is bustling with pilgrims who have walked from all parts of Spain. We stand and look at the Cathedral and high-five while the rain teems down. It was Ray’s first time in Santiago and he found the whole time extremely positive. We decided to wait until the following day to collect our credentials. It left me with some time to meet some people in Santiago – especially Nate and Faith in Pilgrim House.  The following day, we attended the English Mass in the Capilla del Pilar. Once home, I started plotting my next jaunt across Spain.

Caldas de Reis – Padron

Another short day at 18km, we were on the homeward stretch. Thoughts of Santiago were becoming more frequent and it was just a matter of time before we arrived in the Praza. Ray knew little of what to expect and I suppose it is good going in blind. It had been 7 years since I walked into Santiago, so that feeling may as well be new to me.

We left Pension Caldas in the mid-morning and wow we took our time. We were in no hurry. Today was a relatively short 18km through some spectacular woodland areas. 50% was on forestry trails, mostly dirt or gravel. The other 50% was on asphalt. There was always a threat of rain from the off and we received a smattering of showers right through the day. It wouldn’t be enough to wet you through though. One of the highlights of the day was passing the old Iglesia Santa Marina de Carrecedo at Crucerio-Carracedo. There was a mass on at the time and some pilgrims decided to stop off and listen in.

We arrived just short of Padron and rested for the evening. One more day to go.

Pontevedra – Caldas de Reis

After heavy rains during the night, we feared the worst. But the skies cleared once we left the Slow City Hostel in Pontevedra. It’s a really nice place by the way. We kept our rain gear at hand, just in case. Today we walked over rolling hills, through shaded woods and past small towns. There were lots of chances to rehydrate also.

Leaving Pontevedra, you pass the River Lerez and over the Ponte do Burgo. After leaving town we made a gradual climb up before we rested at the Pousada do Peregrino.  

The morning’s walk was a perfect balance of challenge and calm.  We saw very few pilgrims our first 2-3 hours, and the path varied from shaded and wooded through small vineyards to hard surfaces. Later on in the day, we met pilgrims from the UK, Poland, Brazil, and Spain.

We arrived in Caldas, an old Roman town, early, so we found the nearest pizzeria and had some lunch. I was really impressed by a mural that I saw as I entered the town. Nice! Two more days to Santiago!

Redondela – Pontevedra

The stay in Pension Rua do Medio in Redondela was very pleasant with a great owner. I can’t say anything but good things about it. However, with no washing facilities, the evening before was spent looking for a lavadora…which we found! Ah..you can’t beat being a pilgrim!

This morning was perfect but overcast. In fact, rain was a real threat and we had our rain gear close to hand at all times. Redondela is a beautiful town and I would love to spend more time there, but Santiago bound we are! The arrows and distance markers were becoming more prominent once we left the town. And it wasn’t long before we met our Irish friends from the North. We had met them the day previous but had lost touch. Both are Camino veterans and “just have enough time for a walk from Porto”.

We get to the point where we turn onto the trail there is a big white arrow and “Santiago,” written on the road. I take a photo of Ray beside a distance marker, showing our 81kms remaining. We are flying along!

We pass through Cesantes before entering a wooded area. From here, much of the walking reminds me of the Camino Frances. I loved the shade and there is a stream where you walk along. It’s very easy going. However, there is a brief ascent as you approach Soutoxeste. Upwards we climb – something we are used to at this stage and are greeted with a mural of scallop shells – some with messages or names. It’s nice to stop and read some of the messages before moving on.

We reach the town of Arcade. A Romanesque bridge lies over the River Verdugo. We are over half way when we come across the lovely Capilla de Santa Marta…apparently it never closes and has a sello for peregrinos. We stop here for a while along with our Irish friends. It’s a nice place for reflection.

We arrive early in Pontevedra and check in at Slow City Hostel. One of the highlights of this Camino was meeting Susi today. She has set up a small stall just off the Camino before Arcade and you can receive scallop shells for a small donativo. The Camino is a passion to her and I hope to see her again.