I first walked the Camino Francés in 2011 and I have been venturing back and forth each year to walk a section of this great way. Whether it be in La Rioja, Navarra or across the plains of the Meseta, this pilgrim has enjoyed the companionship of other pilgrims, the sights and most importantly, the albergues. This is where you meet other pilgrims, reminisce, and make plans for the days ahead. Before I left for Spain each year, I would read through dozens of Camino blogs and posts on the Camino forum. There would always be recommendations for a good albergue, and naturally enough, I would make a note in my journal…just in case, I was to stop off at said town or village. However, if I had stayed at an albergue previously in a town, I would tend to stay there again…take for example Cuatro Cantones in Belorado or En El Camino in Boadilla del Camino, but more than likely I would be surprised by a hidden gem. And while some pilgrims love the donativo / municipal albergues, some pilgrims might not like something as basic and prefer paying a little more. And who are we to judge! So after 9 years walking the Camino Francés, here are my favourite albergues on the Camino Francés.
Many pilgrims would agree with me when I say that Albergue En El Camino is one of their favourite albergues on the Camino Francés. I discovered Eduardo’s little heaven back in 2012 while browsing one of the many Camino forums. I must admit I didn’t think much of the outside but when I saw the inside…wow! I saw the pool and the brightly designed art and made a note that I would at least drop in for a cafe con leche the following year. The following June, I was walking from Logrono and had met up with four other pilgrims in Belorado. We were walking long days..I suppose were used to it. We walked from Hontanas on this day and I made the suggestion to check out ‘En El Camino’, which is at the back of the village. I suppose we would have chosen another albergue if I hadn’t made the suggestion. Once we entered, we were greeted by Eduardo and he would bring our packs to our bunks without asking for pay. I hadn’t come across this before.
After such a long stage and a very warm day, it is just the albergue I needed to be at. It has everything you need. I felt increasingly at home as the evening went on. It has a great bar and his family work so hard. The communal meal topped it off also. Every time I re-walk the Meseta, I ensure I stop at Eduardo’s place. He has built up such a cult-like status as well, I’m sure pretty well everyone knows him at this stage!
Top tip: After such a long day, buy yourself a drink and enjoy the surroundings. The communal meal is there to get to know other pilgrims. Make sure you take part in it.
2. Albergue parroquial Santa María – Carrion de los Condes
I have to explain myself when some pilgrims are unsure which albergue I mean. This is “the one with the singing nuns”. And while, it has singing nuns, it has so much more. I arrived in Carrion de los Condes for the first time in 2013 a little lost and a little sore. I had lost my Camino family so I was unsure where they were staying. I knew they were ahead of me. I must have been looking around for 20 minutes when I saw Franco – an Italian pilgrim and good friend, waving at me to join the long queue at this albergue. This isn’t even the most popular albergue in this town but pilgrims leave the most fulfulled.
Apart from the singing, the nuns provide a communal meal which you are not required to attend. There is also a blessing in the church next door which is voluntary. In 2013, I was hurting so I was glad to have some food and just rest. The nuns didn’t mind you not attending their ceremonies if you did not wish. I had a greater appreciation for volunteers on the Camino once leaving this albergue.
In 2017 I was back and arrived into Carrion de los Condes on market day. The queue was no more bigger than it was in 2013. In place of nuns, we had volunteers. The nuns were on sabbatical but it didn’t lessen the experience. They encouraged all pilgrims to get involved in preparing the communal meal, in giving the blessing etc. It was a special evening. One of the volunteers found out I was from Ireland and was eager to know more about this great country. He wanted to come walking here in the future so we swapped details. I will be back again if I walk through Carrion.
Top tip: Breakfast is served but you might want to buy some of your own if you want to leave early.
2. Albergue parroquial Casa Rectoral – Bercianos de Real Camino
I don’t know where to begin with this albergue. Do I talk about the building itself, barely standing? Or do I talk about the love and generosity from the volunteers at this smashing albergue? I must admit, I didn’t think much of Bercianos – deep in the Meseta-country. When I walked in June 2013, I was coming close to the end of my walk. It was in the high-30s and I was looking forward to reaching León. But I met the volunteers and I knew everything would be ok.
Something to be aware of however is the volunteers like pilgrim engagement. After communal dinner, you will be asked to sing a song from your country but do not be afraid. You will be given a lot of notice. The two above are basic albergues, but what they lack in features, they make up in heart. They are donativo albergues, and the volunteers ask for you to pay when you are leaving. It is a common mistake to pay the bare minimum (€5)..I usually pay a little more. Top tip: Enjoy the sun setting at the end of the evening with the rest of the pilgrims.
This albergue is closed now since covid struck but hopefully it will re-open in the near future.
4. Albergue de peregrinos Casa del Cubo y de los Lerma – Burgos
Another municipal albergue but not in a small town or village, this time in Burgos. This albergue is massive with over 150 beds but it has all the facilities. It won’t surprise you that some pilgrims take a breather from albergues in the large cities and book a room in a small hotel or pension. Nevertheless, the municipal albergue was always full when I stayed there in 2013, 2015 and in 2018.
Another reason to love this albergue is the location of a bar right across from it’s entrance. It is a great place to meet your fellow pilgrim friends or to have breakfast the next morning. Burgos, being a large city, has got pretty much everything you need. However, I do look forward to start walking once the evening arrives as this particular albergue lacks the intimacy of Bercianos de Real Camino or Carrion del Condes.
Top tip: If you are not feeling well or injured it is possible to stay an extra night, just ask the volunteers.
5. Ágora Hostel – Estella
If your budget can stretch this far for a private albergue, then go for it. Ágora Hostel is in Estella and I stayed there in 2018. You sleep in a capsule style bed with curtain. The owners are Alfonso and Adrienne and they were super helpful and friendly. I arrived way too early from Puente la Reina and they allowed to check in. You get a locker as well for any valuables. This was probably the most comfortable albergue I have stayed in.
There is plenty of space, it is clean and it is simple. Yes, it might be a little expensive at €20 but it is fine for the odd town. I was meeting Linda from SomewhereSlowly.com and it was handy not to have a curfew.
Top tip: Dinner is not served here, but there is plenty of great places in Estella – like Bar Pigor on Calle la Estrella.