It is not long until my arrival in Burgos, and the start of my Camino Francés. I am glad it is the weekend again. I look forward to seeing some of the outdoors again now that the weather has picked up. I look forward to my walks as I get away from the computer screen and it is good to stretch the legs. I do worry that the situation in Spain and across Europe has detiorated. It’s 45 days left, I wait for some calm before I focus putting one foot in front of the other.

With over 7,500 pilgrims arriving in Santiago de Compostela in the last week from many different nations, Irish pilgrims can start visiting Spain from the 19th of July if they wish as non-essential travel returns. While most pilgrims will choose to wait until 2022, the number of pilgrims will increase during the rest of the Summer months right through to the end of the year. Some will choose to walk to Santiago and earn a Compostela while others (like myself) will walk a small section ending their Camino with a promise to return. I’ve a few things to do before then.

a) St James’ Day – the patron Saint of Santiago

St. James’ Day falls on July 25th. When St James’ Day falls on a Sunday (ie 2021 and 2022 because of Covid) Santiago de Compostela and Spain celebrate the feast of St James (“fiesta de Santiago” in Spanish). Unfortunately, I won’t be in Spain, but I can do the next best thing.

I want to meet some pilgrims friends at the Church of St James in Dublin. I have been somewhat reluctant to visit the city centre in the last year but now is a great chance. Last year, I celebrated St. James’ Day by walking to the Church of St James – please feel free to read the post that I have linked.

b) More practice walks and be Camino-fit.

In the last few months, I have been racking up the steps in my locality in the north side of Dublin, however I haven’t ventured that far. To be Camino-fit, I really need to be hitting the hills soonish. The last 15 months of laying low has had an effect on me physically and time will tell if I can manage the Alto de Mostalares with the sun blazing on my back. I have all the gear, I probably need a replacement pair of socks and some washing kit that I can buy in Spain. I am excited to use the DJI Osmo Pocket to record some video while I am there.

c) Keeping an eye on Spain

I try not to listen or watch the news here in Ireland. There isn’t anything good to come out of it and it generally doesn’t help my wellbeing. I am fully vaccinatined so I know what I need to do if I am to visit Spain. The only thing that can stop me visiting Spain are the increasing restrictions. So I am keeping an eye on Spain at the moment and willing to make a call before the end of the month. With 45 days left, I am hoping for some calm and I am as positive as I can be. I am hoping that cases in Spain start to plateau shortly. I am using the below link for updates from Spain. It contains this informative map also. More news before the end of the month. Of course, your feedback is welcome.

• https://www.rtve.es/noticias/20210716/mapa-del-coronavirus-espana/2004681.shtml

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Well hello there..how are you all? I hope you are enjoying the sunny weather of what’s left of this weekend. The good news is that it is here to stay for the next while so it is a great chance to get outdoors. I have been dipping my toes (so to speak) with long-er walks as I prepare for my return to the Camino Francés at the end of August. With Spain opening up again and more pilgrims returning to walk these great roads, I would love to hear from others who are in my position. Tell me where you are walking, and when are you arriving? I return to Burgos and the meseta, a place I really love, for many reasons and I won’t be alone.

I was grateful to receive my second vaccination last Saturday (19th June). While it did knock me out for a few hours, I had a constant smile on my face afterward. At the very same time, pilgrims from all over the world were walking the sacred steps to Santiago de Compostela. 774 pilgrims were awarded their Compostela on that very day. It seems crazy that just a few months ago, barely a hundred pilgrims reached Santiago. Yesterday, more than 900 pilgrims arrived into Santiago. There is a great cause for hope but it is also important to stay safe and vigilant.

My plan is to arrive in Burgos on the 30th of August and walk for 10 days. Who knows where my final day will be and what town I will arrive in when I “finish” this Camino but my flight home is the 9th of September. I wish I had longer but alas! The walk from Burgos to Carrion de los Cóndes is very special. I have walked it in 2013, 2015, and 2017 – each year with different wonderful people, learning different lessons.

My return to Burgos and the Meseta is four years in the making having walked the Camino Inglés and the Camino Portugués from Lisbon. You will find many pilgrims who will use the Meseta as a reason to catch up if they are falling behind. I have talked to folks before who say they don’t find it interesting at all. I often find the stages from Burgos to León the most interesting and have provided me with the most enduring memories.

The landscape may not be the most captivating – with wheat field after wheat field lasting as far as the eye can see. While it may not be physically demanding, it lets your mind wander. Questions that may need answering or attending to can be challenged. If you meet a pilgrim during one of your days, a problem can be shared or halved.

I have been preparing for 15 months mentally. I just need to get used to longer distances again until the end of August. I can’t wait to see Burgos again.

Buen Camino!

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As I reach the 10th anniversary of my first Camino de Santiago, there is much talk of Europe relaxing their travel restrictions. It looks like an end in sight after such a long time.

It is no secret that Spain is looking to kick start the tourism industry and from this Monday, they are to welcome all travellers, provided they are vaccinated for 14 days. For citizens of the EU, it is slightly different and we await the introduction of the digital green card. With this card, it shows proof of vaccination, a negative pcr test or recovery from COVID. It looks like an end in sight. But what about Irish pilgrims, like myself? Well, we have been asked to sit still for another month (July 19th to be exact) until the digital green certificate is rolled out. I do hope that the certificate is available in August as (cue drums) I have flights booked for Madrid on August 30. I will be fully vaccinated by then. I plan to walk from Burgos for a week and bit with my good camiga Linda from www.somewhereslowly.com.

Walking from Burgos will be a perfect place to celebrate my ten years as a pilgrim. It is kind of surreal how fast that has gone by. While I did enjoy starting in Galicia on my first trip, my heart is in the meseta and my time is limited. I arrive in Burgos early on the 30th of August and meet my camiga Linda. Distances will be short and relaxation will be key. I haven’t walked many long walks over the last 15 months. I will be posting a little bit more over the next two months now that I have that adrenaline buzz and I’m sure you can all relate to that.

So again, just as a reminder, if you are fully vaccinated you just need proof and you are good to go! Buen Camino all.

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Over 14 months since start of the pandemic, there is good news on the horizon as Spain looks to welcome pilgrims from June.

News has been filtering in from Spain over the last few weeks that their state of alarm would be lifted and this was confirmed today. Portugal had previously confirmed that the border between Portugal and Spain is now open. So now Spanish people are free to travel within the country. News that the state of alarm was lifted was received with joy and delight but I’m not sure if the partying in the street was the right response.

So where are we?

EU citizens are travel within the EU but you may be subject to criteria. For example, if I was to travel to Portugal now I would need a negative PCR test 72 hours before each flight. I look forward to the EU new digital green card which will allow travel if one can show proof of a negative PCR test or vaccination. There is no date when this will be implemented yet but I would imagine it will be operational by June.

For those who live outside of the EU, you will need to wait a little bit longer, as Spain has prolonged its travel restrictions for countries outside EU until the end of May. The digital green card will hopefully be operational by then, but we wait and see.

In Spain, approx 20% of the Spanish population has received their first dose, so it is still required to wear a mask outdoors. Restrictions are still in place in the form of curfews, depending on what region you are in. Obviously, if the situation gets worse, I would imagine each regional government will impose their own restrictions.

The youtube channel “Spain Speaks” is a very good place to get your daily fix of updates – a resident of Madrid – he breaks down the news for us folks living outside of Spain.

Personally speaking, I wait for my first dose of the vaccine. I will continue to be patient and until then I will continue my Camino at home. That said, we are picking up pace here in Ireland but we are far way behind the UK and the USA. Our own government is hoping that 80% of the population will have their first jab before the end of June. It is a big ask, but we shall see if it is met. We are on the right road, however, and I am hopeful. This is good news and I look forward to returning to the Camino! That said, there is huge demand to return to the Camino – from all over the world. Every pilgrim misses walking these routes and I can only imagine how busy Santiago will be when “normality” returns.

Buen Camino!

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In years past, I would upload one video per year and the only answer for that is I didn’t record enough video. With the advent of instagram and smarter phones, more pilgrims are taking record of their experiences by video. In 2017 I started this. I had quite a bit of footage from 2018 and 2019 too. In time I will upload them.

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In this video, I walked from Burgos to Carrion de los Condes – a quite easy section of the Camino Francés however I did find it challenging due to the heat. As a result, I started my day earlier to beat the higher temperatures.

Burgos – Hostal Evolución
I booked a single room here shortly before leaving home as I would be arriving late in Burgos. Hostal Evolución is central, it is clean however given the choice, I would stay in the main albergue in Calle Fernan Gonzalez.

Hontanas – Albergue El Puntido
There was never any doubt that I would stay in Hontanas after my first day’s walking. It’s a beautiful town. I’ve been here before twice preferring to stay in the municipal albergue at the end of the town. I preferred a change this time. Not only is El Puntido an albergue, but it boasts a restaurant, a bar and a tiny tienda at the back. Hontanas is not short of places to stay but El Puntido must be one of the better albergues on the Camino.

Boadilla del Camino – Albergue En El Camino
I can’t speak highly enough about En El Camino. Eduardo and his family will always be in my heart. I’ve been here three times and if you haven’t stopped off in En El Camino, I’d encourage you to do so. The pool is one of the many reasons I stay here!

Carrión de los Condes – Albergue Parroquial Santa Maria del Camino
When I arrived in Carrión de los Condes, I text a friend and she asked me “Is that the one with the singing nuns?”. Well, yes is the answer to that question but on the day I arrived, the nuns were on sabbatical leave. In their place were volunteers who made us all feel at home. I won’t say anymore, but if you do wish to stay in Carrión de los Condes, make sure you stop by Albergue Santa Maria. Staying there is an experience you won’t forget.