September 8th and 9th 2021 – Days 8 and 9

• Madrid
• Hostal: Hostal La Selecta

My final post in this series and one I always have great difficulty in writing. My walking was over for 2021 but I was looking forward to meeting a friend in Madrid before making a short flight back to Dublin. My Camino family would be in my thoughts as they made their way to Santiago and I walked with them vicariously. The bus trip to Madrid was close to 4 hours – the ALSA was empty as it stopped at Mansilla bus station. It had come all the way from Bilbao early in the morning. I got on and sat into my seat, the only pilgrim.

Arriving in Madrid was a kick to the senses. I arrived in Estacion Sur and immediately felt like I was at home. I had been accustomed to the busy mid afternoon rush of the train station back in Dublin. Now to gather my thoughts and find a way to Gran Via – where my hostal is located! I will never get tired of the metro in Spain. It zooms from A to B and back again. I arrive at Gran Via. Both sides of the road are full of people walking past you like you mean nothing – the opposite to the Camino.

I wash and meet my friend who takes me out for some tapas. Madrid is is filled with people at night but I am surprised by how many wear masks. ‘This wouldn’t happen in Ireland’ – I think to myself. I am brought to the start of the Camino Madrid – the Iglesia de Santiago. Is this a sign? A Camino to consider in the future maybe? The arrows intrigue me, and I do some “googling” when I arrive back at my hostal later on that evening.

So all that was left to do was pack my bags and decide on next years steps. Part of the fun is the planning and once I decide on a Camino, I dive head first in. At the time of writing, I have decided to walk the Portuguese Coastal Camino with my brother from Porto next May. I hope to write more in the months leading up to the walk so please do stick around. I have walked this route before however from A Guarda on the Portuguese border – not as far as Porto. This was in 2018.

Handy links:

• My Instagram for more photos from the Camino
• ClearskiesCamino.com links page
• Gronze.com – for open albergues and distances between towns

If you enjoyed this post, please subscribe to my mailing list on the right hand side of this page.

Buen Camino!

September 7th 2021 – Day 7

• Sahagún to El Burgo Ranero
• Distance: 17.7
• Albergue: La Pension de Blanca in Mansilla de las Mulas.

I started early the next morning. The sun hadn’t risen and I had a cafe con leche before leaving Sahagún. I noticed some fantastic artwork on the way out of Sahagún and took a moment to appreciate it. The walk from Sahagún to El Burgo Ranero is on a senda again. You have, of course, the option to walk the Roman road via Calzadilla de los Hermanillos and join the Camino Francés in Mansilla de las Mulas.

I walked alone, admiring the sunrise behind me. I caught up with a Dutch pilgrim called Melanie who was trying to figure out the correct way to Bercianos. It is a little tricky here and you need to watch the road but once you see the arrow directing you to Bercianos, there are no problems. The road also got much quieter which allowed me to walk on the road and away from the senda. Melanie is walking the Camino and her husband is joining her in a camper van. Each evening, they would meet at a pre-determined destination. I thought that is handy not to be relying on accommodation. We walked to Bercianos de Real Camino for a cafe con leche and a snack.

The 10kms seem to go by in no time. Bercianos greeted us with a new cafe/albergue “Bercianos 1900”. Bercianos has changed alot since I have been here last, alot more accommodation. We ordered a cafe con leche. Laura caught up with us shortly afterward. My feet were starting to play up on me again, so I was glad to rest. We had 7km of straight road ahead of us, with blue skies and a gentle wind. It was 10.30 am but we had plenty of time. For most of the remainder of the morning, there were no other pilgrims in sight. Cyclists passed us by shouting ‘Buen Camino’ and we returned the compliment. It wasn’t long before we reached the 350km marker and myself and Laura took a photo to remind us of the occasion. El Burgo Ranero is a small hamlet with a number of albergues and pensions. It is chosen as an end-stage in Brierley’s book, however, it has a well-respected donativo, “Domenico Laffi”. We all stopped at a the first cafe in the town and rested for a good while. Linda arrived and we had some lunch. I was in no hurry so my intention was to relax here until everyone else was checked in their own albergue. I had my own bed reserved in Mansilla de las Mulas – 15 kms away. I had no intention on walking there however – I just needed to reserve a taxi so I would ask the hospitalero in “Domenico Laffi” if he would do so for me.

The hospitalero kindly did so, so I waited for my taxi to arrive. I had a chat with Scott from the UK who was staying in Dominico Laffi. He told me about a community that resides a little off the Camino Francés close to Villafranca del Bierzo and he was eager to visit them. I had not heard of this place before so I was lapping it up. It seems this community are entirely self sufficient and welcomes pilgrims. All they request in return is that the pilgrim assist in the work in the community. At this stage, my taxi arrives and I say goodbye to Linda and Scott.

To Mansilla! The taxi ride is 15 kms long and I had many emotions floating through my head. My Meseta Camino is coming to an end but something beautiful is beginning – more Camino memories to add to the collection. I want to thank everyone I met and made this Camino special – you all know your names! By the time of writing, my Camino family have arrived in Santiago – a feat I have achieved on three occasions so I know the feeling. In the taxi, we passed the odd pilgrim walking in the dead sun. It must have been 4pm. I learned alot about myself during the last few Caminos. It is important to know your limits and just enjoy every step.

Handy links:

• My Instagram for more photos from the Camino
• ClearskiesCamino.com links page
• Gronze.com – for open albergues and distances between towns

If you enjoyed this post, please subscribe to my mailing list on the right hand side of this page.

Buen Camino!

September 6th 2021 – Day 6

• Ledigos to Sahagún
• Distance: 15.8 km
• Albergue: Hostal Alfonso VI

Morning had come too early and most of the eager pilgrims had left the albergue. I struggled to escape from my comfortable cubby hole and gathered my things. Today would be a short day but it would be my 2nd to last. Time was running out gah!. After waiting for the breakfast bar to open, I grabbed my gear and walked on. The temperature was due to drop today and the forecast predicted a few showers to cool us down before the day was out. This was a little bit of relief. From Ledigos to Sahagún, there are no great surprises with another magical sunrise, and more rolling hills.

I decided to walk along the road instead of sticking to the Senda. The odd car passed by which prompted me to move in to the side. Passing through Terradillos brings back memories of my stay there in 2013 and 2017. The town was asleep so I walked on. Moratinos is the next town and has colourful decorations hanging from each tree. Before arriving at the town, I see a sign telling me to go to the 2nd bar. Apparently, Socrates knows a thing or two. However when I see a gang of pilgrims at the first bar, I throw doubt on his assertion. We stay there for a while before walking on seperately.

There was much chatter of the upcoming halfway point. Our pilgrim friend Stephania, who had walked to Santiago 4 times, was eager to receive a certificate showing she has completed half of the Camino Francés. And everyone is entitled to this – provided you have the sellos. This can usually be obtained in the municipal albergue but on this day, it can be received in the library. It was at this point that my phone decided to power out on me so I will show you photos from my 2013 Camino Francés (below).

Sahagún is a big town and the biggest we had arrived in since Burgos. When I arrive, I sit at Hostal La Bastide with Laura, Yarin and wait for Linda to arrive. I have known the owner of this hostal for a number of years and we keep in touch on social media. It is always good to say hello when I am passing through. I am in no particular hurry to check into my own hostal and stay for lunch and desert with Laura. We meet a father and son who are cycling the Camino and they asked to join us. They are from Belgium. It is very difficult for walking peregrinos and cycling peregrinos to mix as their schedules are not the same. If we were to meet in one town, it would be very unlikely we would meet again.

It must have been close to 2pm before I checked into my own hostal and got washed. It was a nice place on the Camino close to Albergue Santa Cruz. Later in the evening, we all met in the Plaza Mayor for a few drinks and tapas. There were some goodbyes as some pilgrims needed to return home or didn’t have the time. I enjoyed my time walking with them. Ledigos to Sahagún was my penultimate day, I walked back to the hostal close to 10pm thinking about my final day.

Handy links:

• My Instagram for more photos from the Camino
• ClearskiesCamino.com links page
• Gronze.com – for open albergues and distances between towns

If you enjoyed this post, please subscribe to my mailing list on the right hand side of this page.

Buen Camino!

September 5th 2021 – Day 5

• Carrion de los Condés to Ledigos
• Distance: 25.4 km
• Albergue: Albergue La Morena

I had one of my best sleeps yet in Carrion and I was refreshed for another day’s walking. I left early on my own before 7 am to avoid the upcoming heat. The walk from Carrion de los Condés to Ledigos is relatively flat (again) and is a major talking point amongst pilgrims. There are no steep climbs or large descents, there are no cliff or valleys. Pilgrims would wait until after Astorga for those kind of features. Quite the opposite actually, as the next town is 17kms away – Calzadilla de la Cueza. Now, we walk the flat Vía Aquitania without stop. I had plenty of water and some fruit to tide me over until the first town.

It was dark and, save for a few street lights in Carrion, there was no light. I was somewhat confused leaving the town but once I found the old San Zoilo Monastery, now Hotel. I said to myself leaving the town that I should know this town having being here 3 times. That said, I was on the right track. Before leaving, I was secretly hoping that something would be open in the Plaza Mayor but I didn’t mind. I had some fruit to keep me going for a few kilometres. I crossed over the Rio Carrion and made my way for the Roman Road. I was hoping that a van would be serving food further on – a perfect chance for 2nd breakfast. As the sun rose, I was caught up by Mike and Wendy from Cleveland in Ohio. We first met in Hornillos and they were happy to let me join them. We talked about their Irish ancestry – they seemed to have done alot of research. They had travelled to Ireland and I was giving them tips on where to travel should they return. I really enjoyed their company. The morning was quiet. I noticed a few cyclists pass us but my pace was faster than usual. I always seem to walk better with company. I don’t notice those niggling pains.

Shortly after, we stumbled across a van in the middle of nowhere selling cafe con leche and other snacks. There were tables and chairs beside it and there was Laura and Nicole! So there was my cue to sit down for a bit. Mike and Wendy walked on and I said I would see them later. This place was like a mirage to be quite honest as it arrived in the right place at the right time. We met a couple from France who had walked from Le Puy. They were very strong walkers and usually started walking very early so we rarely saw them.

I enjoyed my cafe con leche before throwing my pack back on and got walking. I walked with Laura and Nicole for a bit at a relaxing pace just talking. Nicole had some foot problems – she had started in Burgos like myself and was walking to Santiago. It was getting warm already. Linda arrived behind us with her turbo-powered pacerpoles and walked on picking up speed. I was quite happy strolling along until I arrived at Calzadilla.

Closer to Calzadilla de la Cueza. we all met up and arrived at the bar at the back of the village which seemed to be very busy. I was introduced to a Spanish pilgrim with little English who had walked the Portuguese Coastal Camino and loved it. She was walking to Moratinos today. Nicole would be staying in Calzadilla while Linda and Laura would be moving on to Ledigos, the next village. I left the town by myself, and kept passing large arrows made of individual stones and wondered how long it took to make these. There was one impressive one of an arrow leading to a heart, closer to Ledigos.

Albergue La Morena was not open (we were far too early) when I arrived so I walked to the nearest bar which is just off the Camino. I was joined by Laura shortly after and we had some cool drinks. I guess a half an hour passed before we walked to the plush (and new) La Morena and checked in. It seemed a little bit extravagant for a simple pilgrim in a small town. The owners were very kind and showed us to the bunks, which were cubby holes for each pilgrim and not bunk beds. It was not surprising that it was completo before too long. Linda arrived before us too while we were at the bar. We had the menu which was fantastic and had our clothes washed. I think I will be back there again. The walk from Carrion de los Condés to Ledigos had been really enjoyable. I was starting to meet the same people daily and we had our own little family. I was grateful. I was ready for another day’s walking. Tomorrow would take me from the small town of Ledigos to the big town of Sahagún, and I had began to fall behind on my Camino.

Handy links:

• My Instagram for more photos from the Camino
• ClearskiesCamino.com links page
• Gronze.com – for open albergues and distances between towns

If you enjoyed this post, please subscribe to my mailing list on the right hand side of this page.

Buen Camino!

September 4th 2021 – Day 4

• Boadilla to Carrion de los Condés
• Distance: 24.5 km
• Albergue: Hostel Santiago

From Boadilla to Carrion de los Condés, the Camino is relatively straight and flat however we are introduced to the monotone Senda del Peregrino – the walkway beside the main road. The temperatures were predicted to be close to 30c also. I had a pension booked in Carrion de los Condés so I was in no hurry. Chances were high that myself and Linda would walk together today. After two years in the donativo albergue – Santa Maria, I decided to give it a miss. Most of the Italians staying in Boadilla del Camino were talking about it the night before and how great the singing nuns were – and they are! So they planned an early start! However, I would leave it to Eduardo’s breakfast to wake me up!

6am came and went and soon the entire albergue left with just me packing my bits and pieces. Four years ago, I would be the first out of the room. But this is now. I had a good sleep though with few interruptions. I looked out the door – darkness. I went to the hotel where Eduardo was talking in Spanish to a local. He seemed happy to see me and escorted me to a table. The Spanish news was on – rolling news – it wasn’t long before news became old news. When Linda arrived for some breakfast, I decided to walk with her for the first few kilometres.

From Boadilla to Carrion de los Condés, the Camino takes you along the Canal de Castilla. It was cool, misty and the sun was rising from our rear. We stopped at a field of sunflowers to enjoy the colour before walking to Fromista. You could hear small animals move in the reeds along the canal which peaked my attention for a while. I am always fascinated by the lock at the Canal de Castilla. What a marvelous work of engineering it is. We stop for a bit here, take a few photos and gather our footing before crossing.

Frómista was within sight and after a slight diversion which was confusing, I stopped by Bar El Manchego and ordered a café con leche and freshly made tortilla – second breakfast. We met Iwona from Holland and Linda from Germany who had stayed in Frómista. It is a larger town to Boadilla but after all these years, I prefer Boadilla. When I had finished, I visited the ATM across the busy road before we decided on the correct way out of town.

It wasn’t long until we reached the main highway. I saw the cutout statue on the overpass – a copper cutout of a pilgrim walking in the sun! We crossed the overpass and met the P-980 and Senda del Peregrino. For the next 18kms, I would be walking along the side of a busy highway. Hardly perfect Camino scenery but you take the good with the bad. On the whole, the road was quiet but every so often, a cyclist would pass waving. The sun was out and Linda decided it was time to bring out Polly to protect her from the rays. A wise decision.

We had the option of taking a diversion through Villovieco to Villalcazar de Sirga and we had seen some pilgrims taking this route. It possibly offered some shade, I’m not quite sure? We passed through the sleepy village of Revenga de Campos which offered little. We were in and out in a minute. Villarmentero is home to the slighly unusual Albergue Amanacer which has farmyard animals roaming freely in the large yard. We have a drink however the geese and hens come too close for comfort at times. We left with selIos and smiles on our faces.

Our next stop was Villalcazar de Sirga with its large church. We were both feeling the strain of the heat so we decided to stop for a drink at the nearest bar. Something cold please! Arriving in Villalcazar brought back some good memories. I had stayed here in 2015 with some good people. Ilwona and Linda were underneath the canopy beside the bar and had were staying in this town for the night. Linda wanted to stay here for a bit longer so I finished my drink and marched on to Carrion de los Condés.

It was a tough slog to Carrion de los Condés – 6 kilometres – but I arrived just before 3 pm. I found my hostel, Hostel Santiago, tucked away behind the Iglesia de Santa Maria and I rested. It was well into siesta at this time. Later on in the evening, I met Linda for some food in the Plaza Mayor. We were joined by Laura and later on, Nicole. We all discussed the 17 km gap before Calzadilla de la Cueza tomorrow morning. A number of pilgrims were going to the local mercado for snacks as tomorrow was going to be another warm day. I ran across and bought some fruit and a few cans of Aquarius – one for each of us. I was looking forward to the next day.

Handy links:

• My Instagram for more photos from the Camino
• ClearskiesCamino.com links page
• Gronze.com – for open albergues and distances between towns

If you enjoyed this post, please subscribe to my mailing list on the right hand side of this page.

Buen Camino!