Camino 2016 – Day 3 – Santa Marina to O Logoso – September 4th
A short, but changeable day..

I left Casa Pepa with very little idea as to where I would finish the day. Most of those who where staying here were aiming for Cee, which is 35km and there are two villages prior to that – O Logoso and Hospital at 16km and 18km. But these pilgrims had been walking for 30+ days and had strong feet. I had plenty of time at hand and could take that time, so I decided on aiming for O Logoso. On arriving at O Logoso, I would have 2 further days to walk to Finisterre. This was my “chill-mino”, after all!

The majority of the people in the albergue left at the same time as myself but most kept to themselves in their own groups, whispering amongst themselves in their various languages. I had bought some fruit and chocolate from the evening before and within 15 minutes, I started on out in the dark. It was foggy and before long, I was covered in a light layer of dew. Water was dripping from the trees and this was enough reason for me to put on my rain jacket. There was no rain forecast however. It wasn’t long before I had left the road way to the dirt track under the trees. At this point, I started to climb over 300m, and passed the towns of Gueima and Abeleiras. On a clear sunny day, you can see the resevoir of Encoro Da Fervenza. There are normally great views, but this morning, it is dark, misty and I can only use Google Maps to assure myself of what is ahead of me. Regardless, I march on and descend the hill on the other side to arrive at Ponte Olveira and into Olveiroa. So far this morning, I had covered 10km in just under 2 hours. The sun was doing it’s very best to break through the mist but failing. It was a nice change in the weather and I welcomed it.

I decided to stop off at Albergue Horreo in Olveiroa for some breakfast. Some Spanish pilgrims who had stayed here the previous night were putting packs in order and getting ready for the day ahead. I recognised them from stopping off in Casa Pepa. I ordered my usual tostada and cafe con leche and sat outside. I got chatting to a girl from Hungary who had stayed in the Refugio in Ponte Olveira not too far behind. She wanted to walk to Finisterre today – just under 40kms. I wished her well but I couldn’t help asking why she wanted to go there in such a rush. She told me she had no money and was hoping to sleep in the donativo albergue in Finisterre, while offering to work there. She was taken in by the Camino experience. I offered to buy her a coffee but she refused my offer. I enjoyed talking to her and moved on after drinking my cafe. “I’ll see you in Finisterre”..she shouted as I walked off.

The next 4km to O Logoso was spent in the hills. There are quite a few ascents and descents and I was glad for flatland when I finally reached it. It was particularly busy at this point when I got caught up in a large organised group of Spanish hikers. I decided to walk at speed ahead of them as they were slow. I met my Spanish friends from Albergue Horreo again and we exchanged small talk in English. I was getting used to walking alone on the Camino Finisterre. I suppose I would have enjoyed company but I am walking under my own conditions while walking alone.

I arrive at O Logoso after 4 hours and ask the owner if they are open. She smiled and said yes, but the room is still being cleaned. I say “Estoy cansado” and she laughs! I had no problem waiting outside in the shade with a glass of ice cool coke. Just while I was waiting, the Hungarian girl arrives and sits down beside me. After a cigarette and a quick chat, she moves on and again says “I’ll see you in Finisterre”.

This albergue in O Logoso is one of the better ones. I could have walked to Cee, but that is another 18kms and at 11am, there was no guarantee of a bed. I washed my clothes, showered and chilled in the sun, which had finally made an appearance. Albergue O Logoso sits on top of a valley and there is an impressive view, once you walk behind the albergue. I had an early menu del dia and sat out in the sun until 8pm. The albergue filled up very quickly, however I hadn’t met any of the people in it before.

Tomorrow, I would walk to Cee or Corcubion and the next, to Finisterre. However, I have had plans broken before.

Camino 2016 – Day 2 – Negreira to Santa Marina – September 3rd
More strenuous…and hotter!

I was 2nd to wake in this one room Albergue Alecrin. An Italian girl who was first to bed was busy getting her gear ready and her movement woke me up. It was 5.30am. I decided to make a move myself at that stage. After a quick breakfast of tea, a breakfast bar and some chocolate, I threw on my rucksack and started out. Negreira was dark…and quiet. Walking up the main street, I came to the edge of town where the medieval festival was still ongoing and there was no sign of it ending. I heard someone shout “Hola peregrino!” from one of the many bars. I walk through the town’s original walls and into darkness.

The first 10 kilometers on this stage are all essentially up, up, up! You have to gain 300 km in elevation, about 900 feet, which can take energy. I passed through Zas, A Pena and Fornos, mostly in darkness but I was greatly aware that as soon as the sun would rise, the temperatures would reach the levels yesterday. I had my trusted phone with me, guiding me as I knew I would be lost without some form of light. I was glad to have plenty of water too. The terrain from Negreira is divided between roadway and forest. On roadway, you are constantly checking for cars which come at great speed, while in the forest, the opposite applies. Leaving the roadway, I passed through forest, with dirt tracks and stone walls. The light was diminished by high trees. Ever since leaving Negreira, I had been debating with myself should I continue to Olveiroa or stop somewhere beforehand. My ankles were sore from the previous day’s exertions and I knew that 34km might be a little bit too much for today. Anyway, I walked on..

Just before Villaserio, I was greeted by a small shelter selling food and snacks. It was great to have a cafe con leche however the owner had limited English. I stopped here for a while and met two girls from Slovenia and Italy. One had walked from Lugo and the other had walked from Leon, both were continuing to Muxia together. We decided to walk together for a while as they wanted to practice their English. I was pleased to help! I really enjoyed their company, and they had great stories to tell me about their times on the Camino. Hmm…the Primitivo..I might walk that next year! One had visited Ireland many times and had traveled parts that I had not been to!! I felt bad now 🙂 Passing Vilaserio, I noticed the fabulous new albergue. Next time around, I would love to stop off here.

The time quickly passed as we chatted and marched up the hills together. We were keeping a very good pace, I figured more than 5 km/hr. The sun was splitting the stones at this time and we decided to find a place for a somewhere for a drink. My energy was sapping but they both wanted to reach Olveiroa today. I saw a sign for Albergue Casa Pepa just off the Camino and we aimed for there. I decided that I would stay here for the night, while they would move on after some lunch and a beer.We said goodbye but I had a feeling that we would meet again. Never say goodbye on the Camino, folks 🙂

I checked in to this great albergue and found a bed to myself. I was the first there but it was full before the evening was over. Casa Pepa is just off the Camino and is family run. The owners are very friendly and even if you don’t plan on staying, do drop in and say hello and buy a drink. I had covered 21km today, but I couldn’t help think “what if”. What if I stuck with the girls and walked to Olveiroa? I would not see Muxia this year but it will be there next year. So be it. I thought of the rest of this Camino. I thought of Finisterre and how I would get there. I thought of the sun set and I thought of returning to Santiago. All these things brought a smile to my face. How could I say I have failed?

I washed my clothes, had a shower and had an amazing menu del peregrino. Afterwards, I sat outside in the shade, watching the world go by. I met many Irish people stopping by for a drink as they walk to Olveiroa. Tomorrow, I would walk closer to the sea.