When you make the decision to walk all or part of the Camino de Santiago, your most important question is answered..you have started your trip. However, you will have many other questions to answer..how will I get to Spain, what equipment will I bring, how fit do I need to be, what frame of mind will I need to be in? It does get a little daunting to say the least. For me, I knew very little about the pilgrimage and it was only after I returned from my 2011 trip from Sarria to Santiago that I started to appreciate what the Camino de Santiago was really about. I haven’t looked back since.

When you decide that you want to walk to the Cathedral, you must then decide if you wish to plan your Camino yourself or have a third party do so. Organised Caminos are run by many companies and most can be arranged and booked online. There are many in Ireland who are very successful. These companies pre-book your accommodation based upon a schedule and daily mileage prediction determined by you and they then organise hotel rooms to meet your pace and duration of Camino. Vehicles then shuttle all of your baggage from one hotel to the next so that everything that you need is waiting for you on your arrival.

While the above may sound perfect for the infirm or for groups and families, there are a number of advantages to planning and organising your Camino yourself:

Flexibility: There is nothing better than being able to walk at your own pace and in your own time. One morning you could wake at 7 am and choose to walk 10kms, while the next, you could walk 25km. This would not be the case in an organised Camino where your hotel is booked for you and you have no choice but to stay there for the night in the selected town. Or what if you meet some great people while having a cafe con leche, you don’t have the option to walk with them further, which can be disappointing. So I would say that not knowing how many kilometres you are hoping to walk the following day is a good thing.

Cost: While many would argue that this is not the case, the Camino is a pilgrimage. It has been for hundreds of years. The aim of the Camino should be to seek a sacrifice while at the same time, escape from the trappings of modern-day life – money being one of them. I usually walk my Caminos on a budget, however, many companies charge extremely high prices for even the final 7 days from Sarria. For me, it cost close to €1500 for Sarria to Santiago in 2011, while staying in very plush accommodation. However, this defeats the purpose of a pilgrimage in my opinion. Meals come in the form of “menu del dia”, an inexpensive 3-course meal, or you can cook yourself (or in a group). Nowadays, €30-35 per day should be enough for breakfast, a few cervezas, the albergue, and a meal at night. Flights from anywhere in Europe cost next to nothing if you book them in advance.

Albergues: Albergues are low-cost hostels run by volunteers or by private owners. They cost as little as €5 and up to €18 for the more expensive ones. There are some donation-only albergues, however, they are rare. Albergues are basic with bunk beds and can sleep from 20 to 150 pilgrims. I was blown away at first when I entered my first albergue in Astorga in 2012. However, most hospitaleros treat pilgrims like royalty. An albergue can be daunting to a first-time pilgrim. First, there is often jostling for beds, a lack of privacy, and simplicity. On the other hand, it often offers a fully-equipped kitchen where small groups of pilgrims fix their meals separately but at the same time. This is where a community of pilgrims is met and created. Many then will alternate between municipal and private albergues. They also offer a washing machine and dryer as well as access to the internet. A hotel organised through a company will give you a chance to take a long bath, the possibility to spread out your few belongings and sleep as long as you want. However, you won’t create these friendships that you could do in albergues. I am still in contact with friends from as far back as 2012. My favourite moments were in albergues.

There are downsides to booking through a company – the loss of independence, cost & mingling and meeting people from all over the world. But what alternatives are there for you?

Booking.com, TripAdvisor.com & Jacotrans: If you still feel anxious about organising a partial or full Camino yourself, I would recommend deciding using Booking.com to reserve a bed, whether it be a bunk or a private room, the night before you walk. Don’t do it weeks before because you will only limit yourself. And if you feel like you can carry your backpack, do it! Practice carrying your backpack as much as you can before you leave. If you can’t, you can avail of the services of Jacotrans. Jacotrans.com is a great service that brings your bag from one destination to another. You leave a tag on your backpack, pay a fee and start walking, knowing that your backpack will be waiting for you when you finish. It’s great to use if you pick up an injury. And in this great day and age, there are mobile phone applications for each of the above services.

So, if you are reading this and are fit and able to walk the Camino de Santiago, then my advice is to have a little faith in yourself and avoid third party companies. Do the organising yourself and save yourself a little money. You will also make some lifelong friends in the meantime. I have walked both types of Caminos and I know in my heart what is the best way. Choose wisely.

Around 7 kilometres outside of the town of Astorga is La Casa de los Dioses,  the Home of the Gods. It is not a hotel, an albergue or anything fancy, but quite the opposite. It is a small piece of property owned by David Vidal (link to google maps). This was the most interesting donativo (donation only) that I have encountered on the Camino Frances. This building is the definition of simplicity and he was offering drinks and fruit while not asking for money. Each morning, he travels the short distance to Astorga, buys what he needs and gives what he has to pilgrims that pass. He is what the Camino should be about, keeping it simple and giving what we have to help our fellow pilgrims. Money doesn’t mean much to David. I admire that.

On passing his humble abode in 2012, I wasn’t quite sure what to make of it but there were many people stopping to ask him why he was doing this. Something must have hit him to give up a working life and to live on the Camino. He said to me that he believes that it is all about sharing. That’s a strong reason, no doubt! Last year, 2015, David had moved his building slightly and had started to build a garden to grow. He loves to talk, and is really happy to have pilgrims stop by for a while. The below video shows you La Casa de los Dioses and David talks for a while. Don’t forget to take a few pictures when you pass as the Camino will miss him if or when he goes.

If you’re a regular reader of this blog, you will already know that I am returning to Spain on September 1st to walk the Camino a Finisterre. This route takes me from Santiago de Compostela, where I will see plenty of pilgrims finish their own Caminos, to Finisterre, and then further north to Muxia. I have set aside 5 walking days and that will be more than enough to reach the edge of the world and the sea.

However, the point of this post is to give you a few details about what will be in my pack for this particular journey. My previous Caminos varied from 2 to 3 weeks, but as this trip is relatively shorter, you may ask will that have an effect on my packing list. The answer is no as I have always kept my kit down to a minimum, regardless of the length.

So here goes:

• Lowe Alpine Airzone Pro 35:45 Backpack – What I will be carrying each day. I have worn this pack on two previous Caminos now and love it so much that there is no point making a change. It may actually be too big as it is really a 45l pack but as long as I am not filling up this empty space I will be ok. The pack I own is blue and I have the Irish Camino Society patch sewn on the front for good measure. The straps are ideal and there is a great front zip for easy access. I would recommend this. There is actually a great review of it on YouTube here.

• Sea to Summit Cotton Sleeping Liner – One of the great advantages of walking a short Camino is you see the weather forecast for that week before you go and you can get an indication if there will be cold weather in store. This liner was bought for that. I will be using it alongside my sleeping bag or not at all. And hey! I’m going to Galicia in September; it’s not a case that it will be warm. I have tried this a few times and it’s a good buy.

• Ayacucho Lite 700 Sleeping Bag – Pictured on the left above, the Ayacucho Lite 700 has been voted one of the top 10 sleeping bags for backpackers in the Independent. So, that was enough reason to buy it. Ideal for backpacking across warm countries, it packs down to take up just 2.5 litres of space in your pack and weighs just 680 grams. As I have said above, if the weather is foul, i’ll bring along the liner!

• Brooks Cascadia 10 Trail Shoes – Another piece of kit that can make or break your Camino. I actually won these in a raffle and have loved them ever since. I am definitely bringing them along. It’s worth pointing out that no matter what shoe / boot you choose to wear, that you are comfortable with them.

• Bridgedale Men’s Coolfusion Run Speed Demon Socks x 3 – I’ve toyed around with socks since I took my first steps on the Camino back in 2011. Every year a better pair is manufactured or better material is used. I’ve worn nylon socks (never again!), wool (nope!) and last year, 1000m socks. However, I seem to have found a sock that makes my feet and me happy! I’ll bring 3 of these along.

• Under Armour Original Boxerjock 6 Inch Extended Boxer Brief x 3 – Another piece of underwear that doesn’t need any introduction. These have caused me no problems at all.

• Craghopper Mens Basecamp Convertible Zip Off Trousers – The ultimate Camino item of clothing! Most pairs of convertibles have pockets further down the leg to put money in, or, your credencial, let’s say. They are extremely handy, and I rarely wear them with the lower section on. I will also bring along a spare pair of shorts in the event of a downpour and they need to dry.

• Craghopper Kiwi Mens Long Sleeved Shirt – I wore a Craghoppers shirt on my 2015 Camino and am bringing the same one along this time. It is perfect for warm days and perfect for not-so-warm days. The collar saved my neck many a time last year. Plus if it is too cold, you can layer with a fleece or a wind breaker. And it’s lightweight, which is the main thing!

• Helly Hansen Lightweight Fleece (below) – For those cold mornings! I’m a big fan of Helly Hansen and wear their fleeces anywhere I can, the Camino included. But seriously, a good lightweight fleece is essential.

• Helly Hansen Men’s Driftline Polo Shirt – Cobalt Blue (above)- Another item that will be making a re-appearance from last May. I loved this polo. It’s superquick-dry and lightweight. And no, I don’t have a “thing” with the colour blue 🙂

• Beechfield Baseball Hat – For the sun!

• Rain gear – A lot of people choose to buy a rain jacket, but I am planning for the worst. I have an Altus Atmospheric Poncho added to my kit from last year. I am bringing a pair of waterproof Half Leg Gaiters which you can buy in most outdoor stores. The key here is keeping your feet dry and not getting blisters, or flu for that matter.

So that’s the clothing part of my kit in detail. Of course, there are a few other things that need to be mentioned.

Electronics – I try to avoid the over use of electronics and just use my Samsung phone to blog and take photos. I also intend to bring along my Fitbit Charge. Of course, this is all optional. I met people with Kindles, iPads, etc..I have no idea how they charged them all.

Blister kit & First Aid – I usually carry a small selection for ailments all in a dry bag. If you do need more, there will be a pharmacy close by. On this Camino, I am taking Blistermedic and  Bodyglide Anti Chafing stick for feet, Victorinox Classic SD Swiss Army Pocket Tool, a Needle and thread and 5-10 Ibuprofen tablets. If you take medication, make sure you carry a copy of your prescription in your backpack.

Toiletries – Again, keep everything to a minimum as there are plenty of stores in Spain. Travel size toothpaste and soap lasts a while. While last May, I brought All Purpose Soap by Lifeventure, I will bring Dr. Bronner’s Castille Soap. It is an all-in-one soap. It is highly recommended so I thought I would try it out. A microfibre quick dry towel is essential also. So on this Camino, I will be taking: Osprey carry on washbag,  Dr. Bronner’s Pure Castille Bar Soap, Antiseptic wipes, Trespass Antibacterial Microfibre Towel – Quick dry, Toothbrush and travel size toothpaste, Disposable razors x 2

Side Bag While Walking – A side bag comes in many different shapes and sizes. There are large bum bags with holders for water containers, over-the-shoulder bags, while some pilgrims don’t find it necessary to carry one. I prefer an over-the-shoulder bag that has room for money, my phone, my passport and  credencial…the important things!

And the others that I can’t place under any category:

Headlight
Walking pole
Sandals –  when not walking
5-6 breakfast snack bars – for the morning
Safety Pins x 6 – great for hanging up clothes for drying.
Plastic bag for rubbish
4-5 Different coloured dry bags for inside your rucksack– various sizes
Flents Ear plugs x 1
Light My Fire Spork
Flight tickets

One piece of kit that I have not mentioned, however, is left until last. It’s the humble scallop shell. You see, after the death of Denise Thiem, a memorial tree was planted outside of Astorga. I won’t pass this tree but I’ve been told that if I bring along the shell to the Pilgrim House in Santiago, they will do for me. So in a way, that is the most important piece of kit for this trip.

While I type, the Republic of Ireland football team are preparing for their 2nd round match with France tomorrow at the European Championships in Lyon. Thousands of fans have made their way there by plane, bus, train and caravan to support the team. Each and every fan have behaved superbly with the French calling them the best fans. But this is nothing new. Every supporter who has traveled in the past has given the country a great name.

This is very much the same for people who travel to the Camino. Obviously, they may not be celebrating in the same way as Irish supporters, but they give this country a good name and it’s rare that you would not meet one or two each day. For 2015, 5.367 Irish pilgrims received compostelas in Santiago. If you put that in perspective, 5.417 people from a much larger USA received a compostela. In 2013, I met a group from a college in Dublin who were well loved by their fellow pilgrims. I also met J and C whom I keep in touch with to this day. In 2014, I started my Camino in St. Jean Pied de Port with an Irish girl and walked a full day with one man up and over the Alto de Perdon. And last year, my family was made up with 2 Irish people. I hope to walk with them in the future.

While the whole idea of the Camino is to walk a pilgrimage to Santiago, meeting people from around the world and learning from them, it’s good to meet people from the own country the odd time. The Camino Society in Ireland has been doing trojan work spreading the word of the Camino and long may that continue. Also, in recent years, a number of Caminos inside of Ireland have sprung up for those who do not wish to travel to Spain. I may walk one or two of those. But my next aim is to walk to Finistere. I hope I meet some Irish!

Do you have any fond memories of Irish people while on your Camino? Let me know in the comment box below.

Hi folks, just a quick post about something that has been on my mind of late. The Camino has been very busy so far this year (2016 Jubilee Year) and I’ve been asking myself the above question. 

When people mention the Camino, they are talking about the Way that takes you from the foothills of the Pyrenees in St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela. The French Way or the Camino Frances is the route with the most deep-rooted historical tradition and it is the most popular one. A certain film has made it popular also. Over 60% of pilgrims choose the Camino Frances because it is the route where you can get the most of the “pilgrim experience”. There are many pilgrims that you will meet on your journey and there are many facilities that cater to pilgrims. It is also the best-waymarked route of all. These 790kms will leave an imprint on you, whether you choose to walk over a number of years, or in one year.

However, May 2016 has seen over 32,000 compostelas (or certificates) being issued in Santiago de Compostela, with the figures set to rise over the summer. The numbers of pilgrims have been increasing gradually year on year and many see the next Holy Year as a year of new records. Will there be sufficient albergues or accommodation for these peregrinos? Will supply match demand? I won’t answer those questions now but it is food for thought. Some people may choose to have their Camino booked through a travel agency to remove the stress, while others will sleep under the stars with a mat and a sleeping bag and leave it all up to chance. I prefer to take that option myself!

But…..let’s just park the Camino Frances to one side…, just for the sake of this post. Let’s leave it and discuss the other options available to pilgrims who want to get a “pilgrim experience” and yet have some solidarity. Because you can!

Here are just a few options available to you:

• The Camino Finistere is the extension of the Camino Frances from Santiago de Compostela to Cape Finistere. It was mistakenly believed to be the western-most point of the Iberian Peninsula. It is about 110km in length and can take 4-5 days.
• The Camino Norte runs from Irun in north-eastern Spain. It runs along the Cantabrian coast to Ribadeo, at the entrance of Galicia, where the route turns southwest towards Compostela. It is just over 800km in length and can be tougher than the Camino Frances in parts. After the Frances, it is one of the more popular routes, passing through major cities like Bilbao, Santander and Gijon.
• The Camino Primitivo starts in Oviedo and makes it’s way to Santiago. It goes through Asturias and Galicia. This road has in recent years gained a lot of fans, thanks to its landscapes. This is one for the future for me. Many people take the Camino del Salvador from Leon to Oviedo and then the Primitivo to Santiago. It is a great way to have time to yourself. The Camino Primitivo is 314km in length and can take about 2 weeks to walk.
• As mentioned above, The Camino del Salvador links Leon with Oviedo, across the Cantabrian Mountains. It is about 130km in length.

• Next, we have the Camino Inglés which originates in Ferrol in the North of Spain. The route would be taken by many medieval Irish or English pilgrims, who would sail to the northern Spanish coast and walk to Santiago. Today its popularity is rising as you can reach Santiago within a week; 119km.
• The Camino de Baztan is a very solitary route but is very well waymarked. It started in the French town of Bayonne and ends in Pamplona, where you can continue on the Camino Frances if you wish. The route can be used instead of walking over the Pyrenees from St Jean Pied de Port. It is approximately 100km in length and while it is solitary, its popularity is rising.
• The Camino de Invierno or the Winter Way joins Ponferrada with Santiago through the valley of the river Sil. This way runs underneath the Camino Frances and avoids the climb to O Cebreiro. It is still a very lonely road, but well signposted and maintained.
• The Via de la Plata (or Silver Way) is the most important route in Southern Spain. It is also the longest. It starts in Seville and is characterized by the enormous distances between towns and extreme temperatures in summer. Not one for light walkers!
• The Camino Portuguese is another important and popular route. It starts in Lisbon to the south. Today its two main starting points are Porto and Tui, the last town on the Spanish-Portuguese border. It is the second busiest road after the Camino Francés. It should be noted that there are other Portuguese roads, such as the interior route and the coastal route.

I’ve only listed a few of the many routes in Spain, but there are many more pilgrim routes further afield and where there are pilgrim routes, there will be pilgrims. A busy Camino Frances during the Summer months may be something we have to live with, as there is no sign of the numbers decreasing. But looking at the other options are interesting for possible Caminos over the next few years.