Camino Francés 2023 – Day 3 – Hontanas to Boadilla del Camino

September 17th 2023

• Hontanas to Boadilla del Camino
• Distance: 29 kms
• Albergue: Albergue En El Camino

Morning alarm

I woke up to the sound of an alarm clock to the right of me. I checked my watch to discover that it is 5.30am. I raise my eyes to the heavens and try to go back to sleep. There is more movement shortly after and by 6am, most of the dorm has walked to the bathroom. I’ve given up trying to sleep again and get up. I put away my sleeping bag liner and pack up my bag. I have left the albergue by 6.30am to a black morning sky. Hontanas was quiet but Albergue El Puntido was just open for breakfast. The smell of coffee! I have my breakfast to keep me going until Castrojeriz. Until then, the stars would guide me.

Clear skies guiding me

This day was one of the longer days I had walked since leaving Porto in April. I hadn’t reserved a bed in Boadilla so I was a little concerned, especially after how quick all the beds were taken in Hontanas. I was in no way going to get into a bed race though. If there was no room in the inn, there would be a bed elsewhere. I was convinced of that. I left El Puntido with a smile paying attention to where I was walking. I left Hontanas and there were no lights so I used the torch on my phone. The Camino goes off road for a bit and I needed to be careful as I was so mesmerised by the sky above me. I stopped for a few moments. Without all the light pollution that you normally see in the big cities, you can make out the big stars – Polaris with Ursa Minor. And then there is the Big Dipper. We are led to believe that the three wise men followed Polaris to Jesus when he was born. I start walking again, just so I can make some progress! I see lights in the distance which indicate I am not alone. The walk from Hontanas to the ruins of the San Ánton monastery is on a dirt track and away from the road. I was super careful not to trip or fall as a result. Animals can be heard sleeping in the fields which adds to the atmosphere. It isn’t long before I am back on the main road. Since 2021, the Camino has been moved away from the main road to a path, which is understandable – but I stay on the main road. Pilgrims are leaving the refugio in San Ánton where I am heard one has a great experience. I might stay there next time. I am joined by a pilgrim from Germany but we don’t talk much. Castrojeriz is on the horizon and it is just waking up. It is a beautiful town on the base of a hill. I am greeted by the Church of Santa Maria – you can see it for quite some time before arriving at the town. I stop here for a while and admire it before searching for an open cafe. Many pilgrims are just leaving their respecting albergues so it is still early.

Alto de Mostalares

After a second breakfast, I met my next challenge – the Alto de Mostalares. The Alto de Mostelares is the highest of the peaks you will encounter along the meseta, rising up to 930 metres. I have always found it a challenge but it doesn’t mean I don’t enjoy the views. The sun had risen at this stage and I was taking regular breaks to watch the sun rise being me. It was fun to watch pilgrims who were more fitter than me walk past me with great ease. I reached the top after a half hour or so. There was a large crowd of American and Portuguese pilgrims at the top taking rests before walking on. I mention to a pilgrim from the US “what comes up, must go down” – as we approach the descent. It’s not as tough as the incline but I don’t agree with descents so I take my time! I decide to walk solo for an hour or so until I approach the province of Palencia. Another milestone! The weather was changeable and we were expecting rain so I was keeping a look out for dark clouds. Either side of me are fields of fading sunflowers, with the odd haystack. All I do is put the head down and walk on with a smile on my face.

Puente Fitero and the quietness of Itero

Before I reached Palencia, I arrived at the San Nicolas de Puente Fitero – an albergue ran by Italian volunteers. It is a small building but it is homely. I always stop here for a warm drink. They provide me with a sello before I march on.

I cross the Rio Pisuerga before deciding that my next stop would be Itero de la Vega. I remember my time here in 2021 – there was a great albergue open (Albergue Puente Fitero) and myself and Linda had a great lunch here. However, there were rumours that it was closed and up for sale. I would investigate. The walk into Itero was in the shade and was pleasant and I had the company of an American pilgrim. I enjoyed the time walking by myself but I didn’t mind chatting with the odd pilgrim during the day. Itero de la Vega was quiet but I did enjoy their murals as I enter the town.

Albergue Puente Fitero is sadly closed so I have some lunch in Bar Tachu around the corner. It is packed with pilgrims. To be honest, I think the closure of the albergue has taken away something from the town. I hope it opens again soon. I finish up my tostada, put on my pack and move on. Next stop – Boadilla del Camino!

Return to ‘En El Camino’

It was a two hour walk to Boadilla and I was walking solo for the most of this final part of this day. The rain was threatening but I was lucky – I put in a few extra steps per minute just to beat the rain. The terrain was flat and I had no difficulty though I did notice a slight hot spot under my big toe as I arrived closer to Boadilla. I didn’t want to stop and I decided to wait until I arrived at the albergue to check out my feet. Maybe it was the pace I was walking? Who knows? The scenery reminded me why I wanted to walk the meseta – golden sunflowers covered the fields around me. I wonder why more pilgrims didn’t enjoy the meseta like I do.

Soon, I feel a few drops, leading to a brief shower. Pilgrims around me ran for cover but I could see the town so I decided to walk on and head for the albergue. It was my thinking that most of the pilgrims walking beside me, were aiming for Fromista. It was just a guess anyway. It was great to see En El Camino. Eduardo was behind his desk, busy assisting pilgrims so I waited until he was free. There were locals having coffee, pilgrims having a snack – it was organised chaos. A TV played in the background. I enjoyed it. Eduardo looked at me for a few moments and said “I remember you” After 4 times staying here, I hoped he would. I had a room in the old albergue but had a cafe con leche before I checked in. A communal meal would be at 7 pm.

At the dinner, I met James and Paula again. I was glad to hear they had arrived as they had plans to stay elsewhere. I met Claire from Waterford and Sarah from the US. Beside me was John from Virginia, USA who had recently retired from the US Navy. I smiled when he said that he was having no issues on the Camino so far. I was joking with Eduardo earlier in the day about not meeting Irish pilgrims. He said there a many Irish pilgrims in ‘En El Camino’ and he introduced me to them every time one checked in. There were two pilgrims from Kerry who had checked into the hotel part of the albergue. I chatted with them for a while. It was their first Camino and I wished them well.

After dinner, I head back to the dorm and try to sleep for the night – the next day would bring me to Carrion de los Condes, a place I have been to many times before. The meseta has treated me well. Buen Camino!

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