September 21th 2023
- Bercianos de Real Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas
- Distance: 26.3 km
- Pension: La Pension de Blanca
After a fantastic sleep in La Perala, I woke at 6am to wind and rain – which was predicted. Not the ideal walking conditions, but I had been lucky so far on this Camino. This would be the only day of rain I had received to date. I fell back asleep and woke up at the slightly reasonable time of 7pm, as I had accommodation booked in Mansilla de las Mulas. I had some breakfast later on before it was time to don the rain gear and brave the wintry conditions.
There are 7km to El Burgo Ranero, all of it with wind and rain, phew! It wasn’t pretty walking with the Camino along a senda on the side of the road. I did my best to lift my spirits by listening to music but I was afraid of losing an ear pod or damaging my phone. My over the shoulder bag got soaked, which was unfortunate. I made it to El Burgo Ranero and went to the nearest cafe which was full to the brim of soaked pilgrims. The owners were busy and doing all they could to serve but it was extremely difficult for them. I managed to grab a seat to rest for a few moments and got talking to a Russian couple who were based in California. They had been walking for a few weeks now – I didn’t get into specifics. We got talking about Ireland, naturally enough. They had been there before and loved the West of Ireland, as you do! I had a cafe con leche and some tortilla before wrapping up and heading out. I looked around and saw that the skies were beginning to break. Positive thoughts!
The positive thoughts did work as the skies did eventually clear as I arrived closer to Reliegos. I took off the rain gear and I was happy out. It was great to meet Peter and Betty and other pilgrims, as I had been walking alone for the day, pretty much. A lot of the pilgrims were planning on staying in Reliegos for the night. There is plenty of accommodation there. There was a great gathering at the cafe before the albergues had opened. I had another 6km yet to go to Mansilla de las Mulas – which was fine. I was in no hurry. I gave some pilgrims Camino Society pins and told them I would meet them in León.
The walk from Reliegos to Mansilla de las Mulas gives you the feeling that you are leaving the meseta, you are approaching a larger city, there is a motorway, more junctions, cars, industrial estates, it was generally busier. Mansilla was quiet though. The statue of the weary pilgrims is pretty much the first thing you see as you enter the town. It is well known to those who have walked the Camino and depicts three tired pilgrims having clearly walked more than they can manage. I took a few photos around this area and of the Roman walls before checking into my accommodation. The sun was out at this stage and the day is much different to this morning. I had some food in the courtyard of Hostal La Alberguería del Camino in the old town – a very nice place, before returning to La Blanca to tend to my feet. One more day of walking before returning to Dublin!
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Clearskies Camino 
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