September 5th 2021 – Day 5
- Carrion de los Condés to Ledigos
- Distance: 25.4 km
- Albergue: Albergue La Morena
I had one of my best sleeps yet in Carrion and I was refreshed for another day’s walking. I left early on my own before 7 am to avoid the upcoming heat. The walk from Carrion de los Condés to Ledigos is relatively flat (again) and is a major talking point amongst pilgrims. There are no steep climbs or large descents, there are no cliff or valleys. Pilgrims would wait until after Astorga for those kind of features. Quite the opposite actually, as the next town is 17kms away – Calzadilla de la Cueza. Now, we walk the flat Vía Aquitania without stop. I had plenty of water and some fruit to tide me over until the first town.
It was dark and, save for a few street lights in Carrion, there was no light. I was somewhat confused leaving the town but once I found the old San Zoilo Monastery, now Hotel. I said to myself leaving the town that I should know this town having being here 3 times. That said, I was on the right track. Before leaving, I was secretly hoping that something would be open in the Plaza Mayor but I didn’t mind. I had some fruit to keep me going for a few kilometres. I crossed over the Rio Carrion and made my way for the Roman Road. I was hoping that a van would be serving food further on – a perfect chance for 2nd breakfast. As the sun rose, I was caught up by Mike and Wendy from Cleveland in Ohio. We first met in Hornillos and they were happy to let me join them. We talked about their Irish ancestry – they seemed to have done alot of research. They had travelled to Ireland and I was giving them tips on where to travel should they return. I really enjoyed their company. The morning was quiet. I noticed a few cyclists pass us but my pace was faster than usual. I always seem to walk better with company. I don’t notice those niggling pains.
Shortly after, we stumbled across a van in the middle of nowhere selling cafe con leche and other snacks. There were tables and chairs beside it and there was Laura and Nicole! So there was my cue to sit down for a bit. Mike and Wendy walked on and I said I would see them later. This place was like a mirage to be quite honest as it arrived in the right place at the right time. We met a couple from France who had walked from Le Puy. They were very strong walkers and usually started walking very early so we rarely saw them.
I enjoyed my cafe con leche before throwing my pack back on and got walking. I walked with Laura and Nicole for a bit at a relaxing pace just talking. Nicole had some foot problems – she had started in Burgos like myself and was walking to Santiago. It was getting warm already. Linda arrived behind us with her turbo-powered pacerpoles and walked on picking up speed. I was quite happy strolling along until I arrived at Calzadilla.
Closer to Calzadilla de la Cueza. we all met up and arrived at the bar at the back of the village which seemed to be very busy. I was introduced to a Spanish pilgrim with little English who had walked the Portuguese Coastal Camino and loved it. She was walking to Moratinos today. Nicole would be staying in Calzadilla while Linda and Laura would be moving on to Ledigos, the next village. I left the town by myself, and kept passing large arrows made of individual stones and wondered how long it took to make these. There was one impressive one of an arrow leading to a heart, closer to Ledigos.
Albergue La Morena was not open (we were far too early) when I arrived so I walked to the nearest bar which is just off the Camino. I was joined by Laura shortly after and we had some cool drinks. I guess a half an hour passed before we walked to the plush (and new) La Morena and checked in. It seemed a little bit extravagant for a simple pilgrim in a small town. The owners were very kind and showed us to the bunks, which were cubby holes for each pilgrim and not bunk beds. It was not surprising that it was completo before too long. Linda arrived before us too while we were at the bar. We had the menu which was fantastic and had our clothes washed. I think I will be back there again. The walk from Carrion de los Condés to Ledigos had been really enjoyable. I was starting to meet the same people daily and we had our own little family. I was grateful. I was ready for another day’s walking. Tomorrow would take me from the small town of Ledigos to the big town of Sahagún, and I had began to fall behind on my Camino.
- My Instagram for more photos from the Camino
- ClearskiesCamino.com links page
- Gronze.com – for open albergues and distances between towns