Camino 2016 – Day 3 – Santa Marina to O Logoso – September 4th
A short, but changeable day..
I left Casa Pepa with very little idea as to where I would finish the day. Most of those who where staying here were aiming for Cee, which is 35km and there are two villages prior to that – O Logoso and Hospital at 16km and 18km. But these pilgrims had been walking for 30+ days and had strong feet. I had plenty of time at hand and could take that time, so I decided on aiming for O Logoso. On arriving at O Logoso, I would have 2 further days to walk to Finisterre. This was my “chill-mino”, after all!
The majority of the people in the albergue left at the same time as myself but most kept to themselves in their own groups, whispering amongst themselves in their various languages. I had bought some fruit and chocolate from the evening before and within 15 minutes, I started on out in the dark. It was foggy and before long, I was covered in a light layer of dew. Water was dripping from the trees and this was enough reason for me to put on my rain jacket. There was no rain forecast however. It wasn’t long before I had left the road way to the dirt track under the trees. At this point, I started to climb over 300m, and passed the towns of Gueima and Abeleiras. On a clear sunny day, you can see the resevoir of Encoro Da Fervenza. There are normally great views, but this morning, it is dark, misty and I can only use Google Maps to assure myself of what is ahead of me. Regardless, I march on and descend the hill on the other side to arrive at Ponte Olveira and into Olveiroa. So far this morning, I had covered 10km in just under 2 hours. The sun was doing it’s very best to break through the mist but failing. It was a nice change in the weather and I welcomed it.
I decided to stop off at Albergue Horreo in Olveiroa for some breakfast. Some Spanish pilgrims who had stayed here the previous night were putting packs in order and getting ready for the day ahead. I recognised them from stopping off in Casa Pepa. I ordered my usual tostada and cafe con leche and sat outside. I got chatting to a girl from Hungary who had stayed in the Refugio in Ponte Olveira not too far behind. She wanted to walk to Finisterre today – just under 40kms. I wished her well but I couldn’t help asking why she wanted to go there in such a rush. She told me she had no money and was hoping to sleep in the donativo albergue in Finisterre, while offering to work there. She was taken in by the Camino experience. I offered to buy her a coffee but she refused my offer. I enjoyed talking to her and moved on after drinking my cafe. “I’ll see you in Finisterre”..she shouted as I walked off.
The next 4km to O Logoso was spent in the hills. There are quite a few ascents and descents and I was glad for flatland when I finally reached it. It was particularly busy at this point when I got caught up in a large organised group of Spanish hikers. I decided to walk at speed ahead of them as they were slow. I met my Spanish friends from Albergue Horreo again and we exchanged small talk in English. I was getting used to walking alone on the Camino Finisterre. I suppose I would have enjoyed company but I am walking under my own conditions while walking alone.
I arrive at O Logoso after 4 hours and ask the owner if they are open. She smiled and said yes, but the room is still being cleaned. I say “Estoy cansado” and she laughs! I had no problem waiting outside in the shade with a glass of ice cool coke. Just while I was waiting, the Hungarian girl arrives and sits down beside me. After a cigarette and a quick chat, she moves on and again says “I’ll see you in Finisterre”.
This albergue in O Logoso is one of the better ones. I could have walked to Cee, but that is another 18kms and at 11am, there was no guarantee of a bed. I washed my clothes, showered and chilled in the sun, which had finally made an appearance. Albergue O Logoso sits on top of a valley and there is an impressive view, once you walk behind the albergue. I had an early menu del dia and sat out in the sun until 8pm. The albergue filled up very quickly, however I hadn’t met any of the people in it before.
Tomorrow, I would walk to Cee or Corcubion and the next, to Finisterre. However, I have had plans broken before.